The Best of Big Sur: 8 Hikes and Backpacking Trails for 2023
Table of Contents
A Brief Overview of Big Sur
Between the year-round pleasantness of San Diego’s hiking trails and the old-growth pathways of Redwood National Park sits Big Sur’s seemingly untouched wilderness. While locals might have their own definitions, Big Sur has no clear boundaries. When I use the name, I usually refer to a 71-mile segment of the California State Route 1, between the coastal Malpasso Creek in the north and San Carpoforo Creek in the south. Whatever the boundaries, it has been described as “one of the most beautiful coastlines anywhere in the world.” Surprisingly, the area sees about as many yearly visitors as Yellowstone, yet houses just under 2,000 permanent residents (and with much less infrastructure). That’s because the land is protected under the 1976 California Coastal Act and the 1981 Big Sur Coastal Plan, whose guiding ideas are that Big Sur should be preserved for its open space, visual access, and unique ecology. Since its founding, land stewardship has been a defining feature. As a result, Big Sur is home to seven state parks and two state preserves. Many of the greatest camping spots can be found in the mountainous portions of the region, including the Ventana Wilderness and Silver Peak Wilderness of Los Padres National Forest, as well as non-wilderness sections.What’s hiding under the “Rain shadow”? Big Sur’s boundless biodiversity
The overall climate could be described as Mediterranean, however, Big Sur enjoys a whole host of microclimates that get more pronounced the further inland you go. This is mostly due to a phenomenon called “rain shadow”. In regions where a mountainous range sits right by a shoreline, the passage of wet and warm maritime air is blocked by the higher elevations. This leads to the coast-oriented side absorbing the rain and moisture, while the side facing away from the water stays dry. Because of the stark climate diversity there is a wide range of flora and fauna. For example, the moisture trapped by the mountains creates a prime environment for coast redwood, usually found near creeks or in canyons. On the other, drier side, you’ll find yucca and dusty chaparral flourishing along the trail. Big Sur hosts many more unique plant species, including the Monterey pine, California bay laurel, and the rare Santa Lucia fir, found only on the steep slopes of its range.My Favorite Backpacking and Hiking Trails in Big Sur
Sparsely populated, mostly uninhabited, and about as rugged as it was centuries ago, the best hikes in Big Sur pass through rarefied terrain. To see this dramatic landscape, I recommend hitting the trails. Typically, hikers and backpackers congregate in two main areas: the Ventana Wilderness towards the central area of the region and Silver Peak to the south. A third area, the Pine Ridge Trail from Big Sur Station to Sykes Hot Springs, used to be the most popular one. Unfortunately, a wildfire in 2016, followed by subsequent landslides, caused enough damage that the Forest Service closed it.Hiking in the Ventana Wilderness
The Ventana Wilderness is a federally-designated 98,000-acre area of land that straddles the Santa Lucia range just south of the Monterrey Peninsula. The area is popular among travelers for its sheer and rugged montane landscapes: creeks falling from steep crested ridges, craggy peaks descending into V-shaped valleys, deep pools, and hot springs lying secluded under brushy covers. The Wilderness hosts nearly 200 miles of trails starting from 9 trailheads, the most popular of which is the 24-mile Pine Ridge Trail. Backpackers of all skill levels are mostly drawn to the trails around Kirk Creek in the south and Little Sur River in the north, as they provide access to the best campsites.Hiking in the Silver Peak Wilderness
Rising sharply from the Willow Creek and Salmon Creek drainages to nearly 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the Silver Peak Wilderness is another highly-trafficked backpacking spot. Known for its spectacular views of the shoreline, the area also hosts the southernmost redwood grove in the world and tons of vibrant flora around the creeks. It’s best visited in the springtime as that’s when the waterfalls come to life, and you’re more likely to spot a deer, squirrel, rabbit, or wild turkey. Due to how steep Silver Peak is, the trails there are more physically demanding. The most popular trek is a mild one leading to Salmon Creek Falls, but there are plenty of other, more adventurous, hikes climbing north across the area.Map of Day Hikes and Backpacking Trails in Big Sur
From loops to one-ways, shoreline traipses to peak bagging, there are plenty of options when backpacking in Big Sur. Below, each marker indicates a backpacking area I’ll be chatting about.Your Guide for the Best Day Hikes and Backpacking Trails in Big Sur
To help you find your footing in Big Sur, I’ve compiled a list of 8 must-do day hikes and backpacking trips in the area. For convenience’s sake, most of these adventures will take place in or near Ventana and Silver Peak, and I’ve selected a wide array of treks for visitors of all skill levels. No matter how fit you are or how much time you have, you’ll find something to do here. Easy Day Hikes in Big Sur:-
- Pfeiffer Falls Trail – 1.3 miles (2 km), best for a family hike
- Buzzard’s Roost Trail – 2.6 miles (4.1 km), best for birdwatchers and botany enthusiasts
- Partington Cove Trail – 1.1 miles (1.7 km), best for oceanside hikes
-
- Creamery Meadow, Panorama, Bluffs, and Ridge Trail Loop – 8 miles (12.8 km), best for landscape variety
-
- Kirk Creek Trail to Stone Ridge Trail, Ventana – 13.2 miles (21.2 km), best for seeing a bit of everything
- Salmon Creek Trail, Silver Peak – 16 miles (25.7 km), best for off-season hikes
-
- Cone Peak Trail via Kirk Creek Trail, Ventana – 24 miles (38.6 km), best for great views
- Buckeye Trail to Alder Creek Camp, Silver Peak – 15.2 miles (24.4 km), best for advanced hikers
My Recommended Backpacking Trails in Big Sur
1. Kirk Creek Trail to Stone Ridge Trail, Ventana Wilderness
If you want a little taste of everything Big Sur has to offer, the Stone Ridge Trail is a strenuous backpacking trip you won’t want to miss. You’ll enjoy wild coastal views and old-growth redwoods characteristic of hiking in Northern California, moss-covered oak forests, meadows, and crystal clear streams. Set up a short car shuttle to do it as a 13.2-mile one-way hike or make it an out-and-back trip.
How to backpack the Stone Ridge Trail
Start at Highway 1 near the Kirk Creek Campground. Take the Kirk Creek Trail (often called the Vicente Flat Trail) up above the ocean for an unobscured view of the Pacific (unless it’s foggy, of course). You have the option of camping at Espinoza Camp or Vicente Flat Camp. I prefer the latter, as it has more reliable water and flat spots among old-growth redwoods. Cross the stream and climb from spooky moss-covered oaks to open high meadows. Descend on the steep and sometimes slippery Twitchell Elevator Use Trail through Limekiln State Park back to Highway 1. Along the way you’ll get views of grassy hillsides, with Cone Peak above, and the Pacific Ocean below. Note that you’ll come out on Highway 1 about 2 miles from the Kirk Creek Campground. To avoid the knee-busting descent, turn the trip into an out-and-back after reaching the grassy meadow.A loop trail that gives you a taste of Big Sur’s many ecosystems with several campsite options.
1. Kirk Creek Trail to Stone Ridge Trail, Ventana Wilderness - Good to Know
Challenging
13.2 miles (21.2 km)
+ 3,542 ft, – 4,215 ft (+ 1,079 m, – 1,285 m)
Rocky, bushy, sometimes eroded
Yes, leashed
The access road for the trail, Cone Peak Road, is sometimes closed at the intersection with Nacimiento-Fergusson Road, and the only other way around is a 4-mile hike.
2 days
Spring through fall
Starting at the Kirk Creek Car Campground on Highway 1, follow the Kirk Creek Trail.
2. Salmon Creek Trail to Three Peaks Camp, Silver Peak Wilderness
Getting to Three Peaks Camp
From a signed intersection, climb switchbacks far into the interior of the Santa Lucia Mountains. At Spruce Creek Camp, you’ll reach a confluence of perennial springs and a place to overnight with reliable water. If you’re visiting after rain, know that Spruce Creek can rise 4 feet after an inch of rain. Backpackers have been trapped on the wrong side of the creek, so plan accordingly and always check the weather before you go. Further up the trail is Estrella Camp, which has numerous spots to sprawl out. For those of you headed to the peaks, this will likely be your last water source. Camp here and fill up. Once you reach the dirt South Coast Ridge Road, the walking gets easier with great views as you bop along the ridge towards Three Peaks Camp. It’s open to cars during certain months of the year, but you’re unlikely to see traffic as it barely looks passable to any kind of motorized vehicle. Take the gated (but not signed) Three Peaks Campground Road to a primitive campground below Three Peaks that has a perennial spring. You can also access Three Peaks Camp by taking Spruce Creek Trail via Dutra Flat, though I think the camps and trail conditions along the route as described are nicer and in better condition. It’s 16 miles roundtrip with 4,700 feet of elevation gain to Three Peaks Camp as described.Climb past one of Big Sur’s most beautiful double waterfalls to a campground high in the Santa Lucia mountains.
2. Salmon Creek Trail to Three Peaks Camp, Silver Peak Wilderness - Good to Know
Intermediate
16 miles (25.7 km)
2,110 ft (643 m)
Rough and often slippery, decently shaded
Yes, leashed
Bring extra water and your best hiking shoes. The terrain is tricky, especially at the start, and there’s a lack of reliable water sources near the Three Peaks.
2 days
Spring to fall
At the bend in Cabrillo Highway you’ll find parking for the Salmon Creek Trail.
3. Cone Peak Trail via Kirk Creek Trail, Ventana Wilderness
Climb the highest peak in Big Sur—in fact, with an elevation of 5,155 feet, Cone Peak is the tallest coastal mountain in the contiguous U.S.! Just three miles from the ocean, this should give you an idea of how steep of a climb it is. (If you know your geography, Mount Olympus, one of the most impressive hikes in Olympic National Park, is 7,980 feet tall, but much further inland).
Earn a feather in your cap on this cone
I once backpacked this as a New Year’s trip and was surprised at how warm the summit was, even in winter. But when I visited again most recently this past February, there was snow on top; the mix of hot and cold, snow and sun give it almost a Cascades feel, like you get among the hikes of Mt. Rainier. Summit photos on a snowy Cone Peak are considered a feather in the cap for many California hikers.How to backpack the Cone Peak Trail
Start at the Kirk Creek Trail on Highway 1 (aka Vicente Flat Trail, aka Vincente Flat Trail; signs may indicate either spelling). After a night at Vicente Flat Camp, take the Vicente Flat Trail north towards Cone Peak Road. Here, you’ll head west on a closed, wide dirt road along the ridgeline, with views of the hidden interior of the Big Sur mountains. Turn left onto the narrow and sometimes brushy Cone Peak Trail to the Summit Trail. There’s a fire lookout at the top. From the peak, there are one-of-a-kind 360° views of the Pacific Ocean and the ridges and peaks of the Santa Lucia Range.Climb the highest peak in Big Sur—in fact, the tallest coastal mountain in the contiguous U.S.
3. Cone Peak Trail via Kirk Creek Trail, Ventana Wilderness - Good to Know
Moderate to Challenging
24 miles (38.6 km)
6,230 ft (1,899 m)
Steep, rocky
Yes, leashed
Bugs and bees are common along the trail. Bring bug spray and some longer layers just in case.
2 days
Spring through fall
Take the Kirk Creek Trail to the Vicente Flat Camp and proceed towards Cone Peak Road. Then, walk westward along a wide dirt path until you reach the trailhead.
4. Buckeye Trail to Alder Creek Camp, Silver Peak Wilderness
Where to camp in the Silver Peak Wilderness
There are lots of camping options on this backpacking trip, too. Buckeye Flat is the first campsite on the trail. It has a perennial spring and is considered one of the better backcountry campsites in the area. Otherwise, continue onto the Upper Cruikshank Camp, accessed via a short side trail. If your legs still have some energy, descend to the redwood-lined Villa Camp—it’s one of the more scenic campsites and there’s a spring to refill water. If visiting just after rain (or if it’s raining during your hike), take care around the Villa Creek crossing. Some backpackers have found themselves trapped on the far side of the creek and had to call in rescuers to get back to their cars. The next day, push onto Alder Camp through the Alder Creek Botanic Area. This section of trail can be rougher and more overgrown. Watch out for poison oak and ticks on this here, especially in the grassy area. The views along the way are incredible and Alder Camp itself is home to Ponderosas, Laurels, Sycamores, and of course Alders.My Favorite Day Hikes in Big Sur
Rivaling Yosemite National Park—and it’s world-class hikes and climbing—as one of the top tourist destinations in the States, Big Sur stands apart because of its lack of infrastructure, parking, and roads which has preserved the dramatic scenery. Rightfully, this sliver of California’s iconic coast is known for having some of the best hikes in the country.Create a loop with two of the most popular and scenic trails in Big Sur. Climb from the southernmost grove of redwoods to one of the better backcountry campsites at Buckeye Flats.
4. Buckeye Trail to Alder Creek Camp, Silver Peak Wilderness - Good to Know
Advanced
15.2 miles (24.4 km)
7,570 ft (2,307 m)
Steep, rugged, some bushwacking and downed trees
Yes, even off-leash in some areas
The trail might look a bit overgrown and run-down at the start, but you’re on the right path.
2 days
Good year-round
The trail starts from the Salmon Creek Parking and Trailhead, right at the bend on Highway 1.
5. Pfeiffer Falls Trail
Waterfalls, redwood groves, sun-bathed wildflower ridges, and soaring views of the Pacific packed into a 2-mile trek.
5. Pfeiffer Falls Trail - Good to Know
Beginner
1.3 miles (2 km)
400 ft
Dry, forgiving, well-maintained
No dogs allowed
Valley View is a tough climb, especially for beginners, so taking Pfeiffer Falls up is a much better option.
1-2 hours, depending on your chosen way back
Great year-round
The trailhead can be found right by the Big Sur Lodge, near the entrance to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.
6. Buzzard’s Roost Trail
Buzzard’s Roost gets steeper and harder as it goes along, but the views from the top make the effort well worth it.
6. Buzzard’s Roost Trail - Good to Know
Beginner to intermediate
2.6 miles (4.1 km)
810 ft (247 m)
Shaded, steep, some switchbacks
No dogs allowed
The higher up you go, the narrower the trail becomes. It’s a long way down, so make sure you don’t lose your footing.
1.5 hours
Spring to fall
Walk along the Big Basin visitor center for about a minute, then take the first left. The trail starts at the Redwood Loop signpost.
7. Partington Cove Trail
A trail that’s painfully easy to miss, which is a shame, because it’s one of the prettiest ones in Big Sur.
7. Partington Cove Trail - Good to Know
Beginner
1.1 miles (1.7 km)
350 ft (107 m)
Mostly downhill, wide, rocky, sometimes steep
No dogs allowed
Just across the trailhead, you’ll find the less-popular Tanbark Trail leading up into the mountains. Combine both treks for a half-day adventure.
Under 1 hour
Spring to fall
Drive down Highway one until you come across a gated fire road, the de-facto starting point of the trail.
8. Creamery Meadow, Bluffs, Panorama, and Ridge Trail Loop
In a way, Andrew Molera State Park is everything Big Sur has to offer, just localized in only 4,800 acres.
8. Creamery Meadow, Bluffs, Panorama, and Ridge Trail Loop - Good to Know
Intermediate
8 miles (12.8 km)
1,440 ft (439 m)
From rocky and uneven to flat and well-maintained
No dogs allowed
Make sure to pack a towel to wipe yourself off after the Big Sur river crossing.
3-4 hours
Spring
Take a right near the park entry booth. After a short walk, turn right on the Creamery Meadow trailhead
A parking area can be found right after the Andrew Molera State Park entrance
Hiking the Creamery Meadow, Bluffs, Panorama, and Ridge Trail Loop in Big Sur