Best Hikes of Landmannalaugar: Iceland’s Rainbow Mountains

What I love about the Laugavegur Trail is how rapidly the landscapes melt into each other across 55 kilometers (34 miles). All the headliners Landmannalaugar is known for make an appearance throughout the four-day trek.

With that said, the Laugavegur trail is one of the most renowned in the world. It’s well developed, easy to follow, and comes with crowds to boot.

It’s the “Landmannalaugar Trail” for a reason

So maybe it doesn’t come as a surprise that “lauga” is actually the truncated version of Landmannalaugar. If you can’t dedicate several summers to roaming every inch of the area, the Laugavegur Trail is pretty good bang for your buck—it features views of Landmannalaugar’s iconic rainbow mountains, a stint through a cosmically black desert, and lush green forests.

The trail’s southern terminus is in Þórsmörk, which translates to something like “Thor’s forest,” named for the Norse god.  (That “P”-looking letter makes the “th” sound and today only exists in Icelandic. The more you know!) It’s the perfect name for the valley as Þórsmörk has more trees than you’ll find in most other places in Iceland.

Hiking the Laugavegur Trail

Most hikers follow the trail from north to south, and that’s the route I typically recommend. Of course you can start in Þórsmörk and end in Landmannalaugar, but be prepared for a few days’ climb before a quick descent into Landmannalaugar. 

Day 1: 

People typically do this over four days with the first day being objectively the toughest with 457 meters (1,500 feet) of elevation gain. The first part of the trail ascends up to the Laugahraun lava field and then crosses it. It’s mostly a steady climb up from there, but you’ll have breathtaking views of some of the area’s most iconic mountains. After about 12 kilometers, you’ll arrive at Hrafntinnusker, a mountain (that is actually a volcano) with a hut. 

Day 2: 

The journey onward from Hrafntinnusker is less strenuous. On day two, you’ll lose most of the elevation you gained the day before. The trail covers about 12 kilometers (about 7.5 miles) to the Álftavatn huts, which sit near the deeply blue Lake Alftavatn. If 12 kilometers doesn’t feel like enough in one day, you could push on to the facilities in Hvanngil. 

Day 3: 

For those who chose to stay in Álftavatn, the next leg is a bit longer. It’s 16 kilometers (nearly 10 miles) to the next hut and campground in Emstrur. This is the area where the colors Landmannalaugar is known for give way to a huge volcanic desert, where black rock extends seemingly forever. 

Day 4: 

But the monochromatic landscape doesn’t last forever. On the final day, as you approach Þórsmörk over the trail’s final 15 kilometers (about nine miles), you’ll enter the woodlands of Thor’s woodlands, while descending another 300 meters. 

It’s hard for me to describe how phenomenal this hike is, which is why I’ve come to appreciate photography so much. Some people might think they could reasonably cover 55 kilometers in only a day or two, but I bet the urge to stop every few steps to take photos would slow down even the most focused hiker. 

Huff it during the day, hut it at night

There is a network of huts along the trail, owned and operated by Ferðafélag Íslands, the Iceland Touring Association, (FÍ). The huts vary in size and amenities, but they all typically fit a few dozen people and most have running water, a bathroom, and kitchen. The huts at Álftavatn and Emstrur have showers.

Note that even if you aren’t spending the night—just using the bathroom, say, or hanging out on the benches—you’ll still be asked to pay a facility fee to help cover maintenance costs. 

If you plan on spending the night, make sure to reserve your space well in advance, as they often fill up very quickly. There’s space for camping as well, and you’ll still be able to use the facilities at the hut. Be sure to bring a durable tent and take advantage of the rocks at campsites to keep your shelter pinned down—it is hard to drive pins into the ground. (Also note that the hut asks you to return the rocks to the wooden crates in the vicinity after use.)

Keep in mind that the weather in Iceland is unpredictable. I’m talking high winds, low temperatures, and unrelenting rain. Rain gear and proper layers are vital; last season, dozens of people were rescued from the trail for risk of hypothermia, right in the height of summer. 

While hot food and a place to crash are nice and everything, the huts’ finest features are priceless: the wardens. These are the folks who can answer any questions you may have about the trail or advise you on the weather, so be sure to take advantage of their knowledge.  

The trek up Bláhnúkur Mountain is short and sweet. And by sweet I mean steep.

Bláhnúkur translates to “Blue Mountain” 

The name comes from the blue-toned ash that’s settled on its slopes, which you’ll become well acquainted with on the relentless 350 meters (1,148 ft) climb up. While only about six kilometers (or nearly four miles) out-and-back, because of the steep terrain and a narrow path that quickly drops off on either side, I wouldn’t say Bláhnúkur is a beginner’s trail. But if you have some hiking experience and are up for feeling the burn, this is a good one. 

It’s worth it for the views. Along the way you’ll look down over the Landmannalaugar hut and all the tents bubbling up around it. From the top you’ll also be able to see the lava field spilling across the valley and a couple of glaciers. It’s almost grating seeing those landscapes pressed against each other—green mountains rising up behind a black desert, the cool blue of glaciers in the distance. 

How to make the most of your day

Leaving right from the Landmannalaugar campground, It takes most people only a few hours to scale Bláhnúkur and return. Many will bus in from Reykjavík in the morning, hike Bláhnúkur, and head back to the city in the evening, bypassing any logistical struggles of staying overnight. 

I personally think Bláhnúkur is too short to do on its own, especially if you’re taking the time to travel all the way out to Landmannalaugar. I typically recommend tacking Bláhnúkur onto another trail, such as the Laugahraun Lava Field, or tackling it in combination with neighboring Mount Brennisteinsalda. 

On the other hand, a short hike means you’ll have plenty of time for Landmannalaugar’s crown jewel—the hot spring.

Hot springs: Delights of great magma-tude

Hot springs are bodies of water that sit above a magma chamber and are heated by that geothermal activity. There’s one right near the Landmannalaugar hut, a modest little pool, void of any glamorous development like railings or steps. But that’s what I think makes it one of the best in the country. 

Often, when people imagine Icelandic hot springs, I think they envision a network of bridges and docks across a blue lagoon. But here in the highlands, the hot springs are just pools of water, set in the lush grassy valleys. It’s just you and the landscape.

Of course, they’re not always marked, and anyone who’s spent a good amount of time exploring Landmannalaugar will have their own favorite secret spot. 

The 4 kilometers (about 2.7 miles) loop around Laugahraun Lava Field is one of the most popular day hikes in the area, and well suited for any kind of hiker. 

A beginner-friendly hike in Landmannalaugar

The lava field formed about 600 years ago sits at the base of Mount Brennisteinsalda. Leaving the Landmannalaugar hut, the trail rises up, winding through basalt and obsidian while steam rises from cracks in the earth. You’ll skirt around the bases of Bláhnúkur Mountain and Mount Brennisteinsalda—you can do an out and back here to hike up—before circling back, following a river. The trail features a bit of scrambling, which I’ll say is fun for beginners and experienced hikers alike. 

Being one of the easiest and most accessible hikes in the area, walking along the Laugahraun loop can feel like you’re moving in a herd. So if you’re an especially fast hiker that doesn’t like getting stuck behind slower folks, I’d be wary of this one. 

Mount Brennisteinsalda is the rainbow mountain. The in-your-face, put-that-on-a-postcard mountain. 

Streaked with yellow, blue, red and green it’s a marvel that looms ahead of you the whole trail. In fact, it’ll loom in the distance just about anywhere you go in Landmannalaugar. 

Hiking to its peak allows you to inspect its geologic spectrum. As an active volcano (and one of the most popular volcano hikes in Iceland), Brennisteinsalda gets its hues from sulfur, ash, lava and iron. Chartreuse moss peppers the rocky faces and steam leaks out from fissures in the mountainside.

Hiking to Mount Brennisteinsalda

From the Landmannalaugar hut and campgrounds, it’s about 6.5 kilometers to Brennisteinsalda’s peak, making it another day hike that’ll take just a few hours. You can follow the Laugahraun trail until you reach Brennisteinsalda’s base, then peel off to head up and over the volcano. Its peak sits at 855 meters (2,805 feet) above sea level, but keep in mind the campground is at about 600 meters (1,968 feet), so it’s not a colossal climb. 

It’s more strenuous compared to the Laugahraun loop, but not quite as challenging as Bláhnúkur. At the top, you’ll have a spectacular view of the lava field and neighboring mountains.

“Ljótipollur” translates to “ugly puddle,” a deceptive name to say the least.

How Ljótipollur came to be

Back in the fifteenth century, a violent explosion created the massive crater (1,500 meters / 4,921 feet across) to the north of Landmannalaugar. It’s subsequently filled in with water, which emanates in heavenly blues, a stark contrast to the surrounding prismatic rock.

No lollipop walk in the park: Getting to Ljótipollur

Geographically, Ljótipollur is a bit set back from the other hikes I’ve mentioned, so there are typically fewer people. Leaving from Landmannalaugar campground, the lollipop hike (out, around the lake, and back) is about 13 kilometers (8 miles) and typically takes about 4 hours. The hiking is mostly flat, with views of rhyolite mountains the whole way. 

Alternatively, if a guide is taking you to Landmannalaugar, Ljótipollur is only a quick detour from the road in or out of the valley. In that case, you’d park the Super Jeep near the crater and hike about 20 or 30 minutes up to the lip.

Take it slow

It’s difficult to put into words the beauty of Ljótipollur. The crater’s red rocks are streaked with hardened lava striations, and the deep turquoise pool is brilliant in the late afternoon sun.

For this hike especially, I recommend taking your time. You’ll want to see the crater in the shifting daylight and enjoy the solitude of a trail that only sees a few people daily. The turquoise waters are even home to trout, and you may catch sight of folks trying their luck with the rod. 

When is the best time for hiking?

It’s basically the same as when the F-roads are open, which is typically from June to early September. Mid-June through Late-July is often the busiest time (people are eager to visit once things open up, afterall!), but this also provides the longest days of the year—with the famed midnight sun—so you might be able to avoid crowds by going early or late in the day. Weather averages between 6°C to 14°C (43°F to 57°F) in the summer, and it tends to be drier than other months.

Packing List and Gearing 

You’ll want to bring food in from Reykjavík. But if you left your snack haul on the bunk of your hostel, there’s a shop near the Landmannalaugar hut with last minute snacks and supplies. And by shop I mean a big green school bus called the Mountain Mall. If you’re lucky, they’ll be selling hot dogs and hamburgers (though I wouldn’t bank on it since they often run out).

When it comes to gear, the most important thing is to layer up. Landmannalaugar is not the kind of place where you can pull up the weather app on your phone and trust the forecast unreservedly. We have what I describe as “micro-climates,” as you’ll move through all kinds of weather as you trek across valleys and mountains.

A good sturdy pair of hiking boots is the most important equipment you can bring. (Besides maybe a bathing suit for the hot springs.)

Almost all the best trails start at the Landmannalaugar campground, which offers tent sites and a decked out hut for those who realize it’s difficult to cram all the valley’s wonders into one day.

Where to stay: Ready to cozy up with 70+ roommates?

The Landmannalaugar hut is a prime starting point for a multi-day adventure. But as trekking in Iceland has been booming in the last several years, a vacant bunk is a rare sight, so you need to reserve space with the local mountain club. The price is 10,200 Icelandic Króna per night ($71.70 USD / €68.49).

For those who want to avoid a potential cacophony of snores, there’s also a tenting area nearby. It’s important to note that in Iceland, you’re only allowed to camp in designated campgrounds. So despite the sense of adventure the landscape inspires, don’t go rogue. It’s for your own safety and the preservation of all the features that make Landmannalaugar special. 

Amenities

In addition to bunks (a small room and three large one across two floors), the hut has hot and cold water, a fully-equipped kitchen with gas stoves and utensils, a charcoal grill outside, and a separate hut/shower house.

The wardens

The hut wardens, who live onsite, are a great resource for learning more about trails or gaining insight into the weather.

Regulations to note

Access

In the summer, the area is accessed by F-roads, and you should have a vehicle with 4WD and high clearance. In the winter, you need a Super Jeep or snowmobile (and the hut strongly recommends trying a standard 4×4 rent-a-jeep).

Trash

The hut is close to a brook and in order to protect the environment, it is forbidden to use soap in the water, throw trash in it, or bring glass bottles or containers to it. You are allowed to bathe in it, however. Other than that, clean up after yourself and practice Leave No Trace as you would elsewhere. 

Light packs and long days in Landmannalaugar

It’s funny—business for Norse Adventures started to pick up during the COVID-19  pandemic. I think Iclanders have always had an appreciation for the natural wonders of our homeland, but that became even more pronounced when we had no choice but to turn inward for adventure. Luckily, our country makes it easy to do that, especially in areas like Landmannalaugar, where all kinds of features are concentrated within walking distance of each other.