¡Escalada suprema! The Top 10 Rock Climbing Areas in Spain

The tiny, ancient village of Siurana sits on top of a flattened hill. On all sides, sheer cliffs drop like fortress walls in reverse and it is one of the most remarkable locations I have ever seen. It’s no wonder would-be conquerors had such a tough go of it; Siurana was the last Muslim enclave in Catalonia, only falling to the Christians in the 12th century.

The story goes, when climbers discovered the place in the late 70s, the village was about to go extinct with a mere 8 or 9 inhabitants. What a gem they discovered! Fast forward, this is now one of the world’s premiere climbing spots. With thousands of climbers and tourists every year, the village is far from extinction.

A place for climbing history nerds

I visited most of the major crags in Spain, however Siurana, with its magical atmosphere and rich climbing history, left the biggest impression on me.

Perhaps I have an itch for places from classic climbing movies. That gives Siurana a leg up as it’s on the old school side; the technical routes on slight overhangs have no mercy for sloppy footwork—just like the routes you’ll see in those erstwhile favorites of mine, the Masters of Stone. Crimps, pockets and body positioning are the name of the game here, though you can also find some short steep powerful routes and occasional tufas. Siurana is the place to be if you enjoy interesting lines that will force you to be a better, smarter, and humbler climber.

The more than 60 sectors and 1,500+ routes are enough to keep you busy for a lifetime (if your surname is not Ondra). While the grades are not super stiff, you will rarely find an easy tick. If you do, count on a downgrade in the next guidebook. Be aware that most of the sectors are south facing with few places for shade when the sun gets strong, which makes it a good winter spot and a very sunny summer area (not recommended). With great conditions, beware of the holidays (especially Easter and Labor Day) when it can be impossible to find parking. During these days or packed weekends, you can escape to Arboli, Montsant or many other crags nearby that offer equally amazing climbs.

Just on the other side of the Montsant mountain, some 45 minutes away from Siurana, lies Margalef. Yet another sleepy Spanish village revitalized by the climbing community, Margalef consists of several beautiful gorges littered with pocketed gray and orange conglomerate bulges and walls.

In 1996 the ‘climbing father’ of the area, Jordi Pou, entered Margalef in a search for a new climbing paradise. It was immediately clear that his quest was complete and new mission was about to begin. Margalef quickly became one of the most recognizable names on the world’s climbing map, evidence of the astonishing quality there.

You’ll need to pull a few tricks out of your pockets here

Margalef is the antidote to Siurana’s tricky technical climbs. On most of the routes here, you will battle deep three and two finger pockets and jugs. Body tension and strong biceps is what gets you up the routes. If you spend most of the time honing your climbing skills in the gym rather than outdoors, you’ll definitely feel more at home here. It may take you some days to get used to the specific forearm pump induced by open-hand holds, so don’t get discouraged at the beginning of your trip—it’s a lesson I am constantly re-learning!

Surprisingly beginner friendly

You’ve probably seen videos of pros pulling heinous tendon-wrecking pockets here, and concluded that this place is reserved for the elite. True, there is a ridiculous amount of hard stuff, but out of all the major areas around, Margalef is by far the most beginner-friendly rock climbing area in Spain.

There are many well-bolted 4s, 5s and low 6s on the gray slabs, for example. Even if routes tend to be somewhat alike (pockets, pockets, pockets, and more pockets), there are sectors to mix it up: Catedral holds some of the finest Rodellaresque tufa climbs, while out-of-this-world rock formations in Racó de la Coma Closa are a must see.

When you arrive at Rodellar, a picturesque village in the middle of nowhere, you would hardly suspect that you are about to enter a climber’s dream—and some of the best rock climbing in Spain. At first glance, it seems like many other hamlets: sleepy and peaceful with cute stone houses lining the streets, a few bars with typical red ‘Estrella’ chairs, and stray cats spying on you from a safe distance.

What is not obvious at first is the deep canyon hiding behind the town, courtesy of the Mascun river. “This is not fair”, I thought when I first went in 2010. We are so proud of our best crag back in Croatia, yet there are thirty of equal quality down here (and twenty more still to be bolted). Little did I know that ten years later I would get to call Rodellar my home crag.

Overhangs at their finest

If you’re looking for steep, long, athletic rock climbing in Spain, look no further than Rodellar. Despite the decent holds and tufas, pure power alone will not get you to the chains. The trickery of the steep—such as heel and toe hooks, drop knees, and kneebars, combined with a good dose of endurance and power endurance—are the ticket to a send.

This is one of the rare places that offers decent climbing conditions during the summer heat. Still, it can be quite hot and the rejuvenating river makes for a perfect summer-time accompaniment.

Bring your kneepads!

I know, I know, the endless debate: are kneepads legit or not? Well that question is quickly over in Rodellar. Trusting your jeans (or God forbid, your skin) to do the job will raise some eyebrows, not to mention make for some unpleasant climbing. Many of the routes offer bomber kneebar rests or hide sneaky power-saving knee scums, so if you are not already friends with these precious skills, you soon will be.

Hidden 60km north of Valencia, Chulilla is a vertical limestone paradise to rival the rock climbing in the Dolomites, with some of the most sustained climbing you will find in all of Europe. The vertical and slightly overhanging walls stretch for miles and are home to 1,000+ routes that regularly surpass 30m (i.e., bring your 80m rope!). You will encounter holds of all shapes and sizes, and make sure to check the Chorreras sector with its crazy oversized tufas!

Got endurance?

Many climbers happily return from Chulilla with new personal bests, especially for onsights. While I agree that the grades are not the stiffest around, the climbing style itself is also very friendly. You will rarely find hard stopper moves, which means sending a route is more about finding good rhythm and flow—and having an extra dose of endurance. On the plus side, this is much easier to obtain than the raw power needed to unlock bouldery cruxes. Still, I would warmly suggest training for endurance before coming here (unless your stay will be measured in months, in which case you will have enough time to adapt on-site).

Prior to my first visit to Chulilla, I was almost exclusively doing indoor bouldering and short power endurance routes. Oh boy, did I suffer on these mega pitches! I could hardly focus on the beauty of the routes thanks to the excruciating pain in my forearms. Luckily, urging my arms and hands to not let go is my forte and I managed to rack up a decent amount of onsights nevertheless. Endurance or no-endurance, remember to climb the Spanish way and fight, “a muerte!”.

If you like bouldering, your climbing trip in Spain wouldn’t be complete without venturing to Albarracín. Simply, it is some of the best bouldering you’ll find anywhere. Situated in the eastern province of Aragon, the area is often referred to as the Spanish Fontainebleau, but if the course of history were different, we might be calling Fontainebleau the French Albarracín. That’s how good it is.

The pine forest just outside of the town is full of red sandstone boulders of all shapes and sizes. If you’ve ever bouldered on sandstone you know that it creates some of the most esthetic holds and forms—and can be darn tricky to climb too.

In Albarracín, you will get to enjoy the ergonomically moulded holds while being able to capitalize on your athletic indoor climbing skills. This land is full of incredible roofs and overhangs, a rare treat when we talk about sandstone bouldering. There are also plenty of Font-like, impossibly smooth boulders too, which will make you question what is even considered a hold. Fair warning: there are plenty of hard top outs, so the powerful athletic roof will oftentimes hide a techy “present” for you at the top.

More than just Spain’s best bouldering

Did you know that Albarracín holds another “the best” title? This medieval town was voted as the country’s most beautiful! Believe me, in a country packed with them, this really means something. Be sure to reserve a rest day to explore the narrow streets and ancient walls of the village.

El Chorro is one of the oldest sport climbing venues in Spain. In the 1980s and early 90s, the legends of the sport, such as Barnabé Fernandez, forged the country’s hardest routes there. In recent times, the area dropped out of the spotlight as the world’s climbing elite turned their focus to Catalunya. El Chorro, however, never ceased to be what it always was: one of the best winter climbing destinations in Europe. Between Costa Blanca, Chulilla, and El Chorro, the warm sun and stable weather of the deep Spanish south provides a perfect sanctuary. Heck, in the middle of the summer my hometown in northern Croatia doesn’t have such nice weather!

In El Chorro you can feed your appetite regardless of your climbing taste. Single pitches, short or long multi pitches, or more adventurous trad or sport lines, Chorro provides for climbers of every level (well, if you plan to send 9b, then you will need to look further). Climbing styles range from easier techy slabs and vertical faces on gray limestone to challenging endurance fests on orange-laden overhangs.

Welcome to the real Spain

When I moved to Barcelona, my friends told me if you want to experience the real Spain, you have to hit the south. The “postcard” image you have of the country? It’s all there in Andalucía, the southern province: flamenco, sun, olives, wine, cheap food and drinks, laid back lifestyle, blend of European and Arabic styles, and much more. Within the province, the sleepy village of El Chorro represents the true quintessence.

When you arrive, you have a feeling of going backwards in time. While we are all hyped about the climbing, remember to pay respect to local customs—go to the bar and order a “caña”, embrace the Spanish tranquilo, and remember that mañana is the keyword for all that is bothering you.

Mallorca is an embodiment of the Mediterranean spirit and has some of the most unique rock climbing in Spain. The island’s turquoise waters and golden beaches attract millions of tourists each year (for perspective, the airport had 28 million passengers in 2017!). As one of the most popular sunny retreats in Europe, summers are quite hectic. Luckily, other people’s off-seasons are climbers’ in-seasons.

Spring and autumn are the best time to climb, when the island transforms into a peaceful oasis. The largest of the Balearics is littered with superb limestone crags, ranging from sea cliffs to mountain perches, and reminds one a little of the climbing at Kalymnos. Where most people go to climb in Mallorca is in the southwest and northwest, the areas with the greatest concentration of routes. For trademark Mallorca climbing go for the orange overhanging walls full of bulbous lumps and tufas, my favorite terrain.

Psicobloc, anyone?

Sport climbing on the island warrants a trip to Mallorca any time, however, clipping bolts is usually not what climbers come for. The east coast is the best and most developed place for deep water soloing (DWS, or, psicobloc, as Spainards call it) on the planet. The psicobloc masters call it the purest form of climbing: just you, rock, and deep sea to “cushion” your fall.

Deep water soloing is far from carefree. You’ll see when you find yourself high above the ocean, too pumped to climb up and too scared to drop. Falling into the sea from heights is no joke, though, and requires practice. If you are new to this discipline, take baby steps and work on shorter climbs first. Once you get comfortable it gives you a sense of freedom you will find nowhere else in the sport. Adrenaline rush ensured!

One more thing: you’ll also need to rent a boat to access many of the areas. If you find DWS is your jam, sailing and climbing around Sardinia should be on your list too.

A rock climbing trip to the Canary Islands always makes me feel that I’m in a special place. For one, you are deep in the Atlantic, geographically closer to Africa than the European mainland. The exotic vegetation will remind you of this: palm tree forests, cactuses and other plants are things I haven’t seen anywhere else on the mainland.

The climbing itself is nothing like the rest of Spain as well. Rock here consists of reddish basalt and volcanic, dotted with pockets, crimps, and cracks—and has a slicker texture than limestone. I found it very flowy to climb, requiring just the right mix of technique, strength and endurance. There is also excellent bouldering and trad.

Venga bicho!

Climbing on Tenerife is not (yet) mainstream. Some call it Europe’s biggest undiscovered climbing gem. So, do not expect big international crowds at the crags. Rather, you are more likely to meet local crushers. Word on the street is that ¡venga bicho!, the unmistakable way Spanish climbers cheer each other, spread from the Canaries. It literally means, “come on, bug!”, and apparently only climbers use it. I discovered that by earning some strange looks from my non-climbing friends.

I received incredible kindness from the local climbing community during my visits. People whom I never met before took us to an amazing new crag that was not yet in the guidebook, and even cut their climbing day short to bring me to the airport on time. One of the perks is that the Island has the longest climbing season in Spain; it’s constant warm climate means it is never too hot or too cold. In fact, it is said to have the lowest temperature difference between winter and summer in the world.

Rock climbing in Spain doesn’t get much more adventurous than Picos de Europa. I have lost count of how many times I’ve heard, “dude, you have to go there!” Located at the crossroads of three regions—Asturias, Cantabria, and Castile and León—this vast area of verdant landscapes and limestone peaks is a sight to see. Or even better, to climb on!

The multitude of rock offers routes in nearly any length, style or difficulty. The most prominent peak, Naranjo de Bulnes, is one of the most famous mountains in Spain and a symbol of the park. The 500m wall is home to some of Europe’s hardest big wall routes. To get a feel of this mighty wall, check the video of the legendary Hermanos Pou (Eneko and Iker) opening Orbayu (8c). Whoa boy!

Looking for adventure?

The alpine ethic is respected and maintained here, so you will rarely find over-bolted multi pitch routes. On the contrary, prepare for a full-blown big wall experience: approaches that can take a few hours, big run outs, encounters with bad rock, route-finding troubles, and unannounced bad weather. This is a proper outing for you adventurous souls out there! For less committing rock climbing adventures, the area is full of amazing sport climbs that offer a perfect escape from summer heat.

Let’s not fail to mention that the breathtaking nature is worth the effort in coming on its own. Picos de Europa carries a distinct alpine feel that would never allude to the beaches of the northern Spanish sea just around the corner. This part of Spain must be one of my favorite landscapes ever—it has the greenest of grasses and forests literally touching the sea.

Nowhere else will you find big-wall climbing with easier logistics. A few hours drive from Barcelona, you can literally walk from the bar to the base of huge conglomerate towers that rise 300 m above the picturesque Spanish village of Mallos de Riglos. Once you descend you’ll be almost directly back where you started for a well-deserved beer.

You know how pumpy it can be to climb a sustained overhanging 30 m route? Now imagine doing that for 300 m, pitch after pitch. Your biceps will cry for help! The name of the most classic route here says it all, La Fiesta de los Biceps. By the way, Alex Honnold onsight free-soloed that route. If you ever get on it, just try to imagine that without freaking out.

And if you do want to try that route, or any of the 100s of others, there are over 300 sunny days per year. Try to find another multi-pitch venue with such stable weather!

Ready to get pumped?

In Riglos, you will fight your way up pebbles and stones that stick out of the rock. As is appropriate for such big walls, the holds are bigger than you usually find on conglomerate, with the average size being that of a small watermelon. These so-called “potatoes” tend to be rounded too and will give you ridiculous forearm pump. Fun times!

Even if the routes or pitches may look alike from the ground (you are climbing on “potatoes” after all), they can be quite different in character, ranging from stamina pushes to bouldery bulges. Note that wearing a helmet is highly recommended as the rock can be crumbly, though the well traveled routes are free of loose parts. You can also encounter runouts, so a small rack of trad gear comes in handy (you’ll want some medium nuts and cams, and some slings). And with all that great weather, Riglos is popular among locals, so weekends tend to be busy.

Other must-try rock climbing spots around the world

If you want additional send recommendations within the Spanish speaking area, rock climbing in Central Mexico is an underrated treasure trove of world-class routes. I recommend rock climbing in El Potrero Chico for its big walls, impeccable limestone, and vibrant climbing community.

Itching for something more exotic? Go rock climbing in Thailand for fantastic multi-pitches and bouldering routes, or try some rock climbing in Long Dong, Taiwan for the best seaside trad in Asia.