The 6 Best Climbing Spots in Croatia from a Champion Climber

I vividly remember my first visit to Paklenica: 17-year-old-me, a climbing newbie armed with obsessive motivation, marching into the canyon clueless to what I was about to face. The impeccable limestone walls soared 350 meters into the air giving me chills and a special sense of respect. To this day, nearly 20 years later, that feeling still gets me every time—even though I’ve walked in there on hundreds of occasions.

Climb in the heart of a national park

Paklenica is one of eight national parks in Croatia, a surprisingly high number for a country this size (Slovenia only has one, for comparison). Among the parks, Paklenica is alone in being intertwined with climbing—bolting is not allowed in the others.

What you’ll find is hundreds of high-quality multi-pitch routes, ranging from the easiest pitches imaginable to some of the hardest big wall undertakings in Europe. If multi-pitch is not your cup of tea, Paklenica will also treat you with equally great sport routes. No matter how you get to the top, you’ll enjoy stellar views and can even scout your beach spot for when the climbing day is done—the Adriatic is just at the canyon’s doorstep.

Note that this is a popular place for tourists too, so expect a busier place than most other crags in Croatia.

A historical arena of alpinists

Paklenica has a history of big wall quests going back to the 1930s. For years, it was a stomping ground for Croatian, Slovenian, and Italian alpinists who used the walls to hone their skills for bigger exploits climbing in the Dolomites and beyond. This alpine mensch rivalry gave birth to a unique competition in Paklenica: big wall speed climbing.

The course is a dedicated 5-pitch, 160m route graded 6c+ (​​5.11c), with the annual event taking place during the labor day holidays for the past 22 years. There are strict rules: free climbing is obligatory and simul-climbing is forbidden.

Did you know that a 57hours Co-Founder is the fastest Croatian?

It was inevitable for two motivated young guns (one of which later became the Co-Founder of 57hours!) to jump on the competition train. My brother Perica and I debuted in 2007 and meticulously competed until 6 years later when we outran our alpine mentors claiming the record in 20 minutes and 49 seconds.

Could it go below 20? The Croatian climbing public was anxious to know.

Perica and I opted not to leave them wondering. The following year, we devised a training plan with a ridiculous amount of pull ups, interval sprint running, and comp simulations until we memorized every single move of the route.

The result? We cruised it in 15:16! Just to put things in perspective, that’s 1 min. 30 sec. per pitch per person. The record still holds today—if you are after some instant climbing fame in Croatia, here’s your chance!

Admittedly, if somebody else was in charge of this article, Pokojec likely wouldn’t make the cut. Due to its specific style of climbing, there are not that many fans of the crag.

However, it’s your lucky day! I am the biggest fan there is.

Located a mere 25-minute drive from my home, this is where I spend a good part of my life—from my first “climbing steps” to sending everything the crag has to offer.

Ready for some pocket-pulling?

Ever since my brother and I—two teenagers who just discovered the sport—saw the video of Iker Pou doing that opening move of Action Directe, I religiously believed that pulling on monos is the epitome of climbing. There is something special about being connected to the rock only with the tip of a finger, don’t you think?

Thankfully, pockets are a trademark of Pokojec so I was able to test my faith (and tendons) culminating with an ascent of the crag’s hardest route: an 8b+ (5.14a) pocket-fest where for several moves in a row you hold nothing but monos.

Routes with character

If you are brave enough to give Pokojec a try, you will be rewarded by beautiful smooth rock which would be mostly unclimbable if nature didn’t sprinkle it with pockets of all sizes. Holds and footholds are scarce and so are the ways to climb a route. This precious know-how is passed from one generation to the next, and when some outsider cracks our beta, eyebrows are raised and the elders of the crag debate about the validity of an ascent. However, once you master the style, you will be able to trust any foothold anywhere.

While the meat of the crag is in the 7s and 8s (5.12 to 5.13), there are some brilliant 4s and 5s (5.7 to 5.9) that tackle the typical slopey horizontal ramps and cracks. No two routes are alike, each with particular intricacies and tricks to help you expand your repertoire of moves.

A huge stretch of limestone above the village of Roč just begs to be climbed. Yet, it was untouched until some 10 years ago. While there is a very active, if small, Istrian climbing scene, they were focused on developing smaller nearby crags first.

Then one day during an asparagus hunt, my Istrian friends noticed shiny new bolts on the wall. Upon closer inspection, they found the bolter too: an eager Austrian climber on holiday who couldn’t resist. Kompanj was born and the rest is history.

Limestone for everyone

Kompanj quickly became a go-to place in Istria owing to its universal appeal: no matter what grade you climb you will enjoy limestone at its best.

Technical crimp fests? Check. Tufa wrestling trickery? Check. Easy slabs for beginners? Check. Endurance monsters? Check. Bouldery shorties? Check. New route potential? Check, check, check! Pair that with the marvelous Istrian towns, mouth-watering cuisine, famous wines, even more famous olive oils, and you’ve got yourself a climbing destination destined to bloom.

There is more to Istria climbing than Kompanj

Kompanj kicked-off intense climbing development on the peninsula. Adjoining Italy and Slovenia, the international community joined forces to create the highest concentration of crags there is in Croatia—today Istria is loaded with epic spots. To name a few, Pandora is a 45-degree out-of-this-world tufa-blob overhang with a pass-through waterfall, and Buzet canyon is a summer heaven.

I need to give a honorary mention to Dvigrad, even if its climbing style is out of fashion. This historical Istrian crag has nothing but slabs but holds a piece of world climbing history. In 1988, the slab king, Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, put up a legendary route, Malvazija, grading it 8b+ (5.14a). We waited 29 years for the first repeat by Cody Roth who proposed an upgrade to 8c+ (5.14c)! Another 12 have passed since then and we are eager for the 2nd repeat. Another chance for climbing fame in Croatia up for the grabs! I already tried my luck.

Čikola is one of the newest and hottest additions to Croatian climbing. Serious development started only a few years ago and we just recently celebrated the crag’s 200th route—this is just a beginning!

The Croatian Chulilla

The Čikola canyon is full of uninterrupted walls reminiscent of the limestone paradise near Valencia, Spain. Hence, its nickname: the Croatian Chulilla.

A mere 20 minutes from Šibenik, a major seaside city in Middle Dalmatia, it has a middle-of-nowhere feel to it. When you descend into the canyon, it will embrace you with a sense of wilderness and serenity—something I love the most about this place.

After spending a month in Čikola this winter on a bolting trip, I can testify that I was often the only human inhabitant; somewhat unnerving when you are dangling on a rope high above the deck searching for placements. But, this makes it a great alternative to nearby Paklenica, which can be bursting with tourists.

All year climbing conditions

Čikola is one of the rare crags that is climbable year-round. The south-facing side of the canyon will keep you warm during even the coldest winter months with its marathon pitches, be it beginner-friendly technical slabs or gently overhanging endurance monsters.

The north-facing side is, on the other hand, a perfect hideaway for all of you friction-fixated sun-haters (I feel you my friends!). This side offers somewhat shorter but more overhanging routes tackling some amazing tufas lines and roofs. Last but not least, Krka, another breathtaking Croatian National Park, is just around the corner.

Moving further south gets us to Split, an epicenter of Croatian climbing with a very special community. They are such an easy-going charismatic bunch, and their coffee-drinking abilities are unparalleled.

When I visit, my nervousness rises exponentially as our obligatory pre-climbing coffees regularly stretch beyond the two-hour mark. How can they just sit there while we are surrounded by miles of the best rock? It’s taken me years to (somewhat) learn their relaxed southern tempo, though, to truly live it you have to have it in your blood.

Admittedly, it is very hard to choose a representative spot amongst all the climbing areas. I went with Omiš due to its unique combination of sport climbing, multi-pitches, the Adriatic Sea, and pristine nature of the Cetina River. However, other spots, such as the city-crag of Marjan or the mother-of-all-crags, Markezina Greda, are top-notch as well.

Holiday climbing at its best

The trademark of Omiš is great quality limestone crags right next to the road (luckily, not a very busy one), and just outside of town. You could literally belay from your car if you wanted. This is a true vacation destination in line with the laid-back southern mentality—except you can get 300m off the pitch.

Simply follow the Cetina River, the longest in Dalmatia, and choose your favorite sector. Planovo offers world-class 5s (5.7 to 5.9) and 6s (5.10 to 5.11), while others further down the road have harder climbs. Some sectors do require a more challenging approach, such as Perivoj and Gospinica, with up to 30 minutes of gnarly hiking, however, the trouble is worth it. You can also simply be a spectator, and observe climbers from one of the town’s pleasant bars or beaches.

Our final stop is among the famous Croatian islands. Did you know that the Croatian archipelago is the largest in the Adriatic Sea and the second largest in the Mediterranean, after Greece?

Many of the islands hide climbing paradises, sometimes known, but more often waiting to be discovered. Among them are the two obvious hotspots: Brač and Hvar, where the rock climbing is best reached by sailboat.

Get impressed by Brač…

Let’s start with Brač. The climbing was moderately interesting until the discovery of Smrka in 2014 pinned the island right to the top of Croatian charts. Hands down, this is one of the most impressive pieces of rock I have ever seen. The tufa-littered lines on this 50m wall are on par with the best climbing routes Rodellar has to offer, with one important distinction: good luck encountering crowds or finding polished footholds.

Here you will find some of the best 8as (5.13b) in the country. On the flip side, you will have trouble finding something that’s not a spectacular 8a—more than half of the 30 routes are this grade or harder, making it tricky for parties with mixed levels. Luckily, there is another recently developed crag nearby, Smokovlje, with easier routes.

…and charmed by Hvar

Hvar is the more versatile island for climbing as the many crags can accommodate a range of skill levels.

I have to single out the remote bay of Vela Stiniva, one of my favorite places on Earth. Here I spent some unforgettable Robinson Crusoe-style holidays during my early hitchhiking trips. A tent, the sea, and amazing climbing all within a 50m radius. What more could you ask for?

The most famous place is the Cliffbase laguna. This little limestone lagoon features a cottage with charming accommodation just 10 seconds from the cliff. A further 10 seconds away is the pristine Adriatic and a massive 300m-wide deep water solo wall! Please note that Cliffbase is a private property, therefore, arrangements need to be made prior to the visit.

Most people know of Croatia because of its islands, and naturally, sailing holidays are a popular attraction. In recent years, outfitters are combining sailing with other active sports, such as mountain biking and sailing along the Croatian Coast. Because of the vast national park system and varying terrain, multi-sport adventures in the Dinaric Alps—including hiking, biking and kayaking—are growing in popularity as well.

And then there’s the food. Croatia has been an important gastro-destination for years due to its centuries-long culinary tradition. Taste superior wines, handmade olive oil, cheese, figs, prosciutto, and seafood.

Home Sweet Climbing Home

No, Croatia is not Spain or France, but it is uniquely its own.

Instead of crowded crags, expect to find sectors to yourself. Rather than grumbling proprietors, you’ll meet friendly locals happy to help you with everything you need. The charming villages, delicious local cuisine, and beautiful nature—well, Croatia has everything you could want in a climbing trip!

Looking for your next active holiday? Book your spot for sailing, climbing and relaxing along the Croatian Coast today.