The Best Climbing Walls at Rumney

This wall is filled with beginner to intermediate sport routes and it’s also where I spent most of my first ever day at Rumney (which included getting shutdown by a very wet Rubicon (5.10b)).

Appropriately named, the crag is right behind Rumney’s main parking lot. Keep in mind that both crag and lot get jam-packed on weekends when the weather’s good. There are plenty of worthwhile beginner-friendly climbs on less than vertical walls such as Glory Jean’s (5.6), Cafe au Lait (5.6), and Shealyn’s Way (5.7). There are harder, steeper routes on the adjacent wall to the right side of the cliff, which includes Espresso (5.10d) and 100% Columbian (5.11c). The routes range from short (25’) to longer (75’).

The Buffalo Corral is a beginner leader’s paradise. One of the newest areas, it’s still under the radar, after coming into acquisition in 2016 through the “Final Frontier” land purchase. While these territories are less popular than the older and more well-known crags, the quality of climbing here ensures this won’t be the case much longer.

The walls sits higher up on the forested slopes of Rattlesnake Mountain, and offer excellent views of the White Mountain National Forest valley below. There are two walls at the Corral: the Slab Wall provides clean slabs with edges, cracks, and small roofs, while the Small Wall is shorter, steeper, and harder (mostly 5.10 and up). If you’re in a mixed-level group, the nearby Buffalo Pit offers harder climbs in the 5.10 – 5.12 range.

Waimea is THE destination crag at Rumney and a draw for climbers from around the world. It features numerous classic 5.12s and 5.14s, while also showcasing Jaws II (not the movie), the only 5.15 in America east of the Rockies. I like to pass through here to admire the grit and grace of stronger climbers, while imagining myself climbing these menacing walls someday.

The grey schist melds with vertical black and white streaks, like a row of teeth, and is cinched together with a rusted ochre belt. The walls rise from the base as if they were waves about to crash down, polka dotted with chalk-marks. Looking at the wall is enough to make your palms sweaty.

My personal favorite, Bonsai brims with classic 5.10s and 5.12s that offer steep climbing with big holds (my jam!). There is a lot of history here, the pumpy corner, Peer Pressure (5.10d), was Rumney’s first sport route, and Kundalini (5.12d), was the area’s first 5.13 (though it was later downgraded). The rock looks magnificent with its flakes and ledges of greys, oranges, and greens. If you’re keen on jumping into 5.12, Social Outcast, with its unmistakable arete, is a popular first route for the grade, with fun moves, big holds, and clean falls. For the crushers, Bonsai is a good warm up for harder routes at nearby Waimea.

Perhaps Rumney’s best all-around cliff, the Main Cliff offers height, aesthetics and a wide range of grades that are sure to please. When driving to Rumney, this is the hunk of rock you see hovering above the treeline, offering a first glimpse of what’s to come. The rock is a chalky grey and brown with an angular orange band. As the tallest wall around, you’ll find several airy two-pitch routes and loads of classics in the 5.10-5.13 range. No matter what route you climb, you’ll be able to savor the great views of the Baker River Valley once you reach the anchors.

Large and steep, Orange Crush is the most recognizable cliff in Rumney because of the picturesque overhanging prow that is the Predator line (5.13b). As seen in the magazines! The left side of the cliff is almost horizontal, while the right offers lower angle but longer routes. The wall itself lines up like the bindings of giant books on a bookshelf, jutting out at different lengths. As you might expect, the cliff features plenty of harder climbs, including stellar 5.11s and three classic 5.13s. Orange Crush is a great choice for hotter days as it sits higher on the mountain exposing it to cooling winds and shade.

This is where I did my first ever multi-pitch (shout out to Pine Tree Crack!). Sitting at higher altitude exposed to breezes and sun, Jimmy Cliff is a good climbing option after it rains. Those willing to make the hike up Rattlesnake Mountain will be greeted with a variety of beginner friendly lead climbs in the 5.7 – 5.10 range. The shorter, easier routes tend to start with 5.5 – 5.7 moves before softening up. Also communication between climber and belayer is easy, which makes these sound options for first leads.

There are two walls (left and right) as well as a long slab area further left and around the corner from the alcove. This offers a great introduction to multi-pitch trad and sport climbing on a seriously low-angle pitch (many people solo up this). You’ll be rewarded at the top with fantastic views of the surrounding valley.

Big exposure awaits you at the Hinterlands, a moody and brooding area where a roc might roost or a giant could feel at home. Access requires a big hike up Rattlesnake Mountain. You’ll know you’re there when you see the menacing shark fin awaiting you; crane your neck back and take in the 80’ beast. This intimidating razor contains two of the most unique climbs at Rumney, Jolt (5.10a) and Dolt (5.10a), on either side of the flake. Routes range from 5.6 to 5.12c, with a mix of climbing styles. Many people will come just for Giant Man (5.12b/c), a steep route not for the faint of heart.