In this episode:
- Iceland’s five certified ski guides, and the touring boom
- The Troll Peninsula and Hornstrandir’s roadless wilderness
- Lodge life versus boat trips on a 1975 fishing boat
- Sea-to-summit descents to the Arctic Ocean
- Arctic foxes, flat-light navigation, and the pool ritual after
Backcountry skiing in Iceland isn’t new — the first ski race in the country was held in 1905 on the Troll Peninsula, now called the cradle of Icelandic skiing.
What’s new is the guiding: Iceland has produced only five certified ski guides through its own mountain-guide program, and four of them work out of one lodge in Tröllaskagi.
Viktor sits down with Ólöf, who left a decade running Icelandic Tourism to convert an old schoolhouse into a ski lodge on her family’s land, and Smári, one of the country’s first IFMGA-track ski guides. They cover why April beats January for Icelandic powder, what it’s like skiing sea-to-summit from a converted 1975 fishing boat in the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve — Iceland’s last stretch with no roads at all — and why the geothermal pool waiting at the end of the day is a UNESCO-recognized tradition, not just a nice-to-have.
If backcountry skiing conjures crowds and lift lines for you, this resets it — lodge or boat, you end up skiing straight into the Arctic Ocean either way.
Podcast hosts
Smári is an Icelandic backcountry ski guide and one of only five formally certified ski guides in the country. He grew up on the Troll Peninsula — skiing before he could properly walk, carried on his father’s back — and has been ski touring for over 20 years. He started guiding on skis in 2012, long before formal guide education existed in Iceland, and in 2023 completed the country’s first official ski guide training program, developed in collaboration with Canadian and Swedish guiding organizations. He now guides backcountry ski tours on the Troll Peninsula and boat-accessed expeditions into the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. He knows this terrain the way only someone who grew up in it can.
Ólöf is the co-founder of Sóti Summits, a guiding and lodge company on the tip of the Troll Peninsula, about 40 kilometers from the Arctic Circle. She spent a decade as Director General of Icelandic Tourism before deciding she wanted to do something closer to the ground. In 2015, she and her husband bought a dilapidated old schoolhouse in the region where her mother’s family is from — her grandfather was born on the neighboring farm — and built it into one of Iceland’s best backcountry ski destinations. She runs the lodge, the hospitality, and the team, which includes four of Iceland’s five certified ski guides.
Viktor Marohnić is the CEO and co-founder of 57hours. Born in Croatia, he moved to New York in 2010 and found his way into the mountains through a guide. He’s been chasing that feeling ever since — as a skier, climber, runner, and kitesurfer. Iceland has been on his ski list for a while. After this conversation, it moved up.