Where to Go Trail Running in the Alps From a Local Guide
by Emily Geldard - Trail running guide at Run The Alps
Sorry climbers, and move over skiers—the Alps are now the trail running capital for big mountain treks. Thanks to a vast network of routes and a well-developed hut system, runners are taking the sport to new heights.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
My pulse punches into higher gear and my calves yip as I crest another hill. Bidding bonjour to a group of hikers as I pass, I make my way towards a small clearing in the distance where the familiar outline of a mountain hut promises food and shelter for the night.
When I arrive, the endless vistas of the Alps unfold. To my right, a boulder-strewn pasture stretches down a mountain’s shoulder. To my left, an alpine lake glints against a grassy meadow. And my breathing softens.
Up here everything is glacial—the valleys, the lakes, the pace of life. But we trail runners march to a different beat.
Yes, we strain and push our bodies, but it’s less about grinding out miles and more about being in tune with nature and oneself. When trail running in the Alps, I find my own rhythm among the mountain landscapes. Since more runners are coming to the valley than climbers these days, I’d bet others agree.
Care to join?
Trail running in the Alps means passing by glaciers, greenery, and everything in between. Photo courtesy of Run the Alps
Enter the Rarified Air of the Alps
The Alps are Europe’s most extensive mountain range, stretching across 1,200 kilometers (750 miles) and eight countries. Sprawling through just France, Italy, and Switzerland are over 100,000 kilometers (62,137 miles) of paths, many of which have been used for over a millennium.
In the Middle Ages, the trails acted as trade routes connecting secluded hamlets scattered across the range. A more contemporary example is in Italy, where WWI soldiers would spend weeks, or even months, hiking in the Dolomites on ancient footpaths.
In modern times, many of those traditional villages have transformed into tourist hotspots known the world over. Unassuming old trails and mule tracks leading to them are now premier sporting attractions, celebrated by hikers, bikers, and a new kind of wayfarer—trail runners.
Trail running in the Alps—a sport for everyone
For many mountain-loving people, the Alps are the quintessential high-altitude landscape thanks to a history of adventuring that dates back to the 1700s. The range has traditionally been the domain of mountaineers and skiers at higher elevations, and of hikers and mountain bikers on the lower-lying paths. However, trail running has sprinted onto the scene.
Let me offer some explanation. Combine dirt trails that are perfectly suited for running, an abundance of routes, along with an extensive system of huts and chalets, and you’ve got yourselves a pastoral paradise where there’s always new areas to explore and exciting challenges to conjure up.
Further, trail running has grown immensely in the last two decades, attracting millions of runners worldwide with its appealing focus on endurance over speed, along with low physical and financial requirements.
Why Alpine runners go nuts for the huts
I arrive at the hut with sinking energy that’s matching the movement of the sun—and look forward to the warmth and shelter. I greet those who arrived before me soaking in the last bit of light and head inside to find the keeper.
The rustic ambiance, wooden bunk beds, and friendly locals are just what one needs after a long run. I eat my hot meal, often starting with soup and cheese, and think about the day ahead. I go over the route, the weather, and finally our lodging for the following night.
The huts are reasonably well equipped, with basic amenities such as running water, blankets, and cooked meals, which is great for trail runners who want to travel light. The hut system in the Alps is sprawling and impressively connected, allowing you to travel to the most remote parts of the range and still have a place to stay for the night.
My Recommendations for Where to Go Trail Running in the Alps
For me, trail running and the Alps go hand in hand. While growing up in England, I was always an avid hiker and road runner, but my identity on the trails really grew when I moved to Chamonix. I first fell in love with the town when I visited as a part of a youth climbing expedition. The beauty of the place simply blew me away, and deep down I knew my return was inevitable.
I started leading trail running tours during the summer months—from the Tour du Mont Blanc to casual day trips, and became hooked on the numerous competitions held in the area. There’s hardly a big trail I haven’t left my footprints on.
If you’d like to know which ones are my favorites, you’ve come to the right place.
1. Chamonix, France
TOP CHOICE FOR A DEVELOPED TRAIL RUNNING SCENE
Abundance of trails for all difficulty levels
Easy access to higher elevations with gondolas
Great network of mountain huts for breaks or overnight stays
Gets quite busy during August
Difficult to find space in huts during peak season
High above the clouds and the Chamonix valley on a run on the Grand Balcon Nord trail. It’s these kinds of views that help me put one foot in front of the other on a difficult run. Photo: Daniel Fitzgerald.
Chamonix has a long and storied history in outdoor sports, dating back to the first ascent of Mont Blanc by Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard in 1786. As the birthplace of mountaineering and traditional gateway to high-alpine adventuring, it has been the site of countless great achievements.
Today the Chamonix Valley hosts some of the most prestigious trail running competitions in the world, including the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB), a 100-mile race around the Mont Blanc massif which attracts runners from around the globe. By some accounts, the village now welcomes more trail runners annually than climbers or skiers.
This is partly due to climate change affecting the area. With rockfalls becoming increasingly common and the permafrost melting at an alarming pace, it’s no wonder climbers are seeking their fortune elsewhere. For runners, however, things have never looked better.
The popularity of races is largely due to the high quality of trails. They are often located high above the valleys, offering expansive views and a real sense of exhilaration. I’m a fan and frequent visitor of many Chamonix’s trails, so picking a favorite was not easy for me, but I’ve managed to boil it down to two essential ones.
Chamonix trail running on Grand Balcon Sud and Aiguilles Rouges
First, we have Grand Balcon Sud. This beginner-friendly trail runs along the eastern side of the Mont Blanc massif, offering views of the area’s peaks and glaciers. You can take a lift up and do the relatively flat traverse, or if you want more of a challenge, you can skip the lift and opt for the 900-meter climb. The trail starts at Planpraz, the departure point for excursions to Lake Cornu and Grand Balcon Sud, and winds its way along the mountainside, passing through Alpine meadows and rocky outcrops. It’s a classic hiking trail in Chamonix that should not be missed.
Then there’s the Trail des Aiguilles Rouges—a brilliant option for more experienced runners. The trail winds its way through the Aiguilles Rouges nature reserve, with panoramic views of the Mont Blanc massif and the Chamonix Valley. The terrain is varied, with steep ascents and descents, technical singletrack, and is quite remote, making for a challenging but rewarding experience.
Chamonix has more to offer than just world-class trails right outside your door. The community in the area is welcoming and supportive, often cheering runners on during races. For me, the all-women trail running camps in Chamonix and Courmayeur are a perfect testament to how strong the community bond is.
Chamonix might not be the birthplace of trail running, but it’s one of its brightest stars. The valley’s unique balcony trails and running events are drawing people in from far and wide.
– Emily Geldard
Trail Running Chamonix's Balcon Nord
Trail Running Chamonix's Balcon...
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1. Chamonix, France - Good to Know
Terrain:
Chamonix’s trails have terrain typical of the Alps. Below treeline you’ll find grippy and consistent soil, while above there are more gravel paths with larger rock fields every now and then.
Typical day out:
Because of the system of gondolas and the variety of trails, you can do everything from a one-hour run to a multi-day, staying in mountain huts along the way.
Elevation:
Chamonix is at 1,037 meters (3,396 feet) and my favorite options go up to about 2,500 meters (8,284 feet).
Getting there:
To get to Chamonix, most people fly to Geneva, which is about an hour drive away. Alternatively, you can take one of the local trains to make a connection to Geneva, Paris, or other major European cities.
Who is it best for:
Chamonix has something for everyone, and all of the best trails are easily accessible. Trams and lifts mean you can quickly gain elevation, or descend at the end of a long run.
Tips:
Chamonix’s long history of trail running makes it a popular destination, so the trails can become busy—especially during the last weekend of June and last week of August, when the biggest races occur.
Where to stay and grab a bite:
The Refuge du Plan de l’Aiguille, just underneath the Aiguille du Midi mid-station on the south side of the valley. It’s a difficult hike up, but the fruit tart makes it well worth the trip.
Ever-changing landscapes ranging from rugged to pastoral
Finding accommodation on the trail during the summer months is challenging
One of my groups keeping pace on the Tour du Mont Blanc, passing through Val Ferret. This was one of the first trips I led as a trail running guide and will always have a special place in my heart. Photo: Jeremy Johnson.
The Tour du Mont Blanc is a 170-kilometer (106 miles) hiking route through France, Italy, and Switzerland whose reputation transcends the world of outdoor sports. As the name suggests, it provides an up-close and personal encounter with the majestic Mont Blanc massif, looping through out-of-sight alpine villages, sprawling wildflower meadows, and rugged mountain passes snaking their way to snow-capped peaks.
When trail running, the Tour typically takes six days, covering around 30 kilometers (18.6 miles) per day, including big ascents and descents. Accommodations are in hotels in the valleys, and there are plenty of opportunities to stop at mountain huts for snacks or meals.
Running in the Alps is meditation in movement
During my first summer guiding, I ran the Tour countless times and I’ve kept coming back to it over the years. I have to say, its position as a classic in the trail running world is completely deserved. Probably my favorite part is coming back into the Chamonix Valley from Switzerland, with beautiful framed views of Mont Blanc welcoming you after an exhausting journey.
The runner-up (pun intended) would be the section of the Tour between Rifugio Bertone and Rifugio Bonatti in Italy. That section consists of a flowing dirt trail that goes along the side of Val de Ferret, with the awe-inspiring east face of Mont Blanc staring at you from the opposite side.
As a cool alternative to this classic route, I’d highly recommend The Grand Bernese Oberland Traverse, a multi-day cross-country running trip in the Alps.
I love experiencing the distinct cultures, food, and scenery of France, Italy and Switzerland all in one long run.
– Emily Geldard
Trail Running the Tour du Mont-Blanc with Run the Alps
Trail Running the Tour du Mont-...
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2. Tour du Mont Blanc - Good to Know
Terrain:
The terrain on the TMB varies from riverside forested trails to alpine meadows. Each day offers something new.
Typical day out:
Each day on the TMB is generally between 25 and 30 kilometers (15 to 19 miles) with a start around 8 or 9 AM and arrival around 3 or 4 PM. Breakfast at the hotel, snacks while running, and a coffee break at a hut along the way are enough to keep me going for the day.
Elevation:
Elevation on the trail varies from 810 meters (2660 feet) at Saint Gervais, France to 2537 meters (8323) at Grand Col Ferret, Italy.
Getting there:
Most hikers start and end their hike in Chamonix, which you can get to by train, car, taxi, or shuttle. If flying in, Geneva is the closest airport at just an hour away.
Who is it best for:
Running the TMB is a serious undertaking best suited for advanced trail runners, but in my opinion it’s well worth the effort.
Tips:
Given the Tour’s popularity, handling the logistics on your own can prove a great challenge. Going with a guide eliminates the hassle. I also recommend training with poles because you’ll be doing steep ascents and descents throughout.
Where to stay and grab a bite:
I’d recommend stopping by Rifugio Bertone and Rifugio Bonatti. They both have great local food to offer and beautiful terraces to enjoy your meal on.
No matter the trail you pick, running in Zermatt means you will most likely have the Matterhorn as your background. Photo: Mark Brightwell.
Zermatt is an idyllic village tucked deep away in the Swiss Alps. More precisely, in the shadow of Matterhorn, whose 4,478-meter (14,692 ft) pyramid of rock and ice has made the town one of the most coveted resorts in the world. Surrounded by more than 400 kilometers (250 miles) of marked hiking trails, this mountainous area is a paradise for hikers and runners, with trails that wind through green valleys, over steep rocky ridges, and up to some of the tallest peaks in Europe.
One of my favorite hikes starts in the village of Randa, taking you across Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge—one of the longest in the world—and back to Zermatt. The views from the bridge are breathtaking and the route provides a great mix of challenging uphill and exhilarating downhill sections. It’s a full-day affair, but one suitable for anyone with some trail running experience.
Other Zermatt trails for chasing that Alpine high
Another memorable trail is at Gornergrat. You can take the Gornergrat Railway to 3,089 meters (10,135 feet), and as soon as you step off the train you will see panoramic views of the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks. I would recommend going from Gornergrat to Riffelsee and Riffelberg. It’s a short but scenic run—a mostly downhill 5-kilometer (3.1 miles) trail. If you get lucky, you might catch a glimpse of Matterhorn’s imposing fin reflected in Lake Riffelsee.
Finally, there’s the Gorner Gorge. This narrow and steep-sided gorge is a beautiful setting for a trail run. The route includes wooden walkways under snowy peaks and bridges over rushing waters. Such a pristine vision of Alpine life is enough to make you stop dead in your tracks and soak in the views.
Overall, Zermatt is an ideal destination for people who want to combine the resplendent beauty of the Swiss Alps with the kick of trail running. Note that the area is also quite popular among MTB enthusiasts, many of which consider it the peak of mountain biking in Switzerland.
Zermatt is an excellent option for picture-perfect runs under the watchful eye of the Matterhorn.
– Emily Geldard
MATTERHORN ULTRAKS 2021 - AFTERMOVIE !!
MATTERHORN ULTRAKS 2021 - AFTER...
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3. Zermatt, Switzerland - Good to Know
Terrain:
Due to its higher elevation compared to Chamonix, Zermatt has more open rocky fields and sheer faces.
Typical day out:
Some of my favorite runs are quick two to three hour bouts from the Blauherd or Blatten lift, but with more free time there are plenty of six-to-eight-hour runs to enjoy.
Elevation:
Zermatt is quite high up at 1,610 meters (5,300 feet) and has a very mountainous feel.
Getting there:
Zermatt is famously car-free, and can only be reached by train, taxi, or helicopter. If driving, you can leave your car parked in Täsch, but getting there by train is best.
Who is it best for:
Zermatt’s system of trams and lifts make the area accessible, and the high elevation means it’s great for more challenging endurance runs. Most hikers and runners are visiting for the awesome views.
Tips:
Unlike Chamonix, Zermatt’s trails have few hikers and trail runners. The town is expensive and can get busy, so plan ahead, budget well, and always know there are remote trails nearby.
Where to stay and grab a bite:
My favorite spot is the fairly remote and uncrowded Berggasthaus Trift hotel, where they make their own traditional tea.
Well-connected train system makes luggage transport easy
Traditional Swiss culture on every corner of the trail
About 2.5 hours away from a major airport
We were enjoying the weather on this lovely spring day while running past Bachsee near Grindelwald in the Bernese Oberland. Notice the blue and purple flowers blooming near the trail! Photo: Giles Ruck.
Grindelwald is an idyllic Swiss village located in the Bernese Oberland, at the foot of Eiger’s iconic North Face. Next to it, the Mönch and Jungfrau form an enormous wall stretching southwest. Like a postcard come to life, this community charms visitors with the gentle song of cowbells and the smell of self-service cheese and milk stands lined up in front of wooden houses, their ornate balconies wreathed in flowers.
Blessed with an abundance of straightforward, relatively flat trails, Grindelwald is my top pick for new runners looking to acquaint themselves with the sport. After finding the right tempo and getting used to the elevation gain, you can simply transition to more challenging ridge lines and high-altitude plateaus.
Like many Alpine towns and villages, Grindelwald is car-free, but the train system allows trail runners to move between towns and transport their luggage with ease. During your stay, you’ll experience a relaxing and fuss-free environment.
Go for convenience and culture in Grindelwald
I’ve had some of my favorite runs on the Panorama Trail from Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg, and the trail from Grosse Scheidegg to First (pronounced in German, not like the English cardinal number)—both beautiful and easy routes that provide sweeping views of the glacial features the Grindelwald Valley is known for.
Another popular option is the wide and smooth gravel path to Lake Bachalp, which cuts across a landscape punctuated by U-shaped valleys and glistening waterfalls.
For more advanced runners, the Hardergrat Trail offers a thrilling ridge line run with endlessly Instagrammable views of Lake Brienz, one of Switzerland’s finest. Last but not least, we have the Eiger Trail—a classic every runner should try. The path works its way through an open meadow, undergoes a series of steep uphills, then finally drops down to the Eiger Glacier.
The unique train system in Grindelwald opens so many possibilities for trail runners. That’s what keeps me coming back trek after trek.
– Emily Geldard
Run the Alps Berner Oberland Trip
Run the Alps Berner Oberland Trip
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4. Grindelwald, Switzerland - Good to Know
Terrain:
Grindelwald is set in a long and fairly shallow valley, but it’s walled in by steep and dramatic peaks like the Eiger, Wetterhorn, Mettenberg, and Reeti.
Typical day out:
I love to gain some elevation on the traditional train lines in the area and go for shorter, smooth runs. I also love to run between Grindelwald and neighboring towns like Interlaken or Lütschental.
Elevation:
Grindelwald itself is at 1,030 m (3,380 ft). Kleine Scheidegg sits at 2,061 m (6,762 ft) and the Eiger at 3,967 m (13,015 ft).
Getting there:
The closest airport to Grindelwald is Zurich, about 2.5 hours away by car or 3 hours by train.
Who is it best for:
Grindelwald is another town with great lift and tram infrastructure. I think it’s the perfect place for beginner trail runners, but there are tons of options for more advanced runners as well.
Tips:
If you want to run between towns, you can purchase a ticket for your baggage to be dropped off at the town of your choice and pick it up at that train station.
Where to stay and grab a bite:
Grindelwald and its neighboring towns are very traditional farming areas, so you can find loads of local cheeses for sale outside of people’s homes.
It’s important to remember that, just because you are running, it doesn’t mean that you have priority over hikers, and the same trail etiquette used in hiking is applied in trail running.
For example, you should still stop if you are going downhill and give way to the person going uphill. If you’re running up behind someone, you should give a quick “Bonjour” or “Hello” so that they know where you are and don’t get startled when you come near them. Finally, if you are taking a quick break to take off a layer or get a drink of water, make sure to do it off the trail.
Essential equipment for trail running in the Alps
One of my favorite parts about trail running is that the equipment needed is minimal. It boils down to having a sturdy pair of running shoes, layered clothing, a hydration system, and for the more difficult sections—hiking poles. Thanks to the number of huts at your disposal, you don’t have to bring large supplies with you.
Fitness, preparation, and acclimatization
To train for trail running, there are several things you can do to improve your technique and fitness. Hill intervals are a great way to focus on your uphill running endurance. Find a moderate hill and run up it five times, then walk down. Follow this by walking up five times and running down. Another great way to boost your cardio is by running further once a week. Simply adding 1-2 kilometers to the end of your usual run is a great way to get used to longer distances.
Form is another crucial part of form running. Adjusting your running form on the trails is important, including leaning forward slightly and exaggerating your arm swing when running uphill and keeping your steps light and short when running downhill. Plyometric exercises like jumping lunges and squats can improve agility, balance, and power, which are all helpful for trail running.
Finally, to acclimatize to the altitude I’d recommend ascending gradually. As a rule of thumb, avoid ascending directly from low elevation to sleeping elevation above 9,000 ft (2,750 m) in a single day. Once above 9,000 ft, it is advisable to not increase your sleeping elevation by more than 1,600 ft (500 m) per day.
Tips for staying safe while trail running in the Alps
First and foremost, you should be prepared for emergencies. This means knowing local rescue numbers, carrying a charged phone or a satellite communication device, and having a first aid-kit on hand. Next, you should have good navigation skills and an awareness of the terrain you are entering. Study the trails and carry a GPS along with a physical map in case you lose your way. Finally, and I’ll touch more on this below, you have to be aware that weather conditions can change quickly.
Best time to run in the Alps
Best time to visit the Alps for a trail running vacation would be between June and September, during the summer and early fall. Keep in mind that most of the areas get very busy around late July and August because of the many different racing events.
Weather conditions
The weather can change rapidly in the Alps, and in addition to this for every 100 meters you gain in elevation the temperature drops by one degree Celsius. This is why it’s extremely important to carry an extra (ideally waterproof) layer with you. Just because it is warm down in the valley, doesn’t mean it will be warm and sunny up above the trees. Don’t underestimate the unpredictability of the Alps and always be prepared.
Why go trail running in the Alps with a guide
For multi-day tours such as the Tour du Mont Blanc, it is often difficult to book accommodations along the trail. Traveling with a guide means that all of the logistics such as route planning, securing lodging, and transport are taken care of. More than this, traveling with a guide means you will get valuable information about the area and culture of each country.
Most guides are locals and have run across these trails a plethora of times. Their knowledge is unmatched. Finally, in the case something goes wrong, it is always good to have an expert who is trained in wilderness first aid. Your guide can be that extra security blanket.
Alternative adventures to try out
If these Alpine gems are not enough to scratch your adventure itch, there are always other mountains nearby to check out. My first suggestion is trail running in the Dolomites, whose massive pale spires and wildflower-strewn meadows can rival the Alps in beauty. The other is trail running in the Guadarrama Mountains, a 150,000 national park chock-full of exciting trails and bountiful nature. If you’re looking for a change of pace between runs, I recommend checking out the best spots for mountain biking in France.
Be Runnin’ Up That Trail, Be Runnin’ Up That Alp
In the world of trail running, the messier the shoes, the better the memories. You can expect to come down from the Alps with yours caked in mud, dust, and riddled with scratches that tell tales of wonders high above. As rivulets of sweat roll down your body and the crisp mountain air fills your lungs, you’ll feel—yes, tired and thirsty—but above all, cleansed.
This is a simple, straightforward sport with a low barrier to entry, one whose benefits far outweigh the cost. In this case, the hardest thing to do is actually getting to the Alps. After that, you only have to choose a path, find your preferred pace, and enjoy the untouched nature around you.
À bientôt, and I hope to see you on the trails!
Emily Geldard grew up running and her love for the mountains was ignited during a climbing trip to Chamonix. Some of her favorite routes in the Alps are Dents-du-Midi and Trail Aiguilles Rouges. Emily is passionate about guiding and sharing her love for this landscape while running with others.
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