Alpine Climbing Tour in the Tantalus Range

Mount Tantalus | British Columbia
Trip Highlights

Top three reasons to go rock climbing in the Tantalus Range

  • Trip Highlight

    Tackle up to 4 world-class objectives in a single tour

  • Trip Highlight

    Plenty of awesome, crowd-free climbs for all skill levels

  • Trip Highlight

    Heli-accessed hut offers quick and easy approaches to the best routes

Often overlooked for Squamish and the Chief, the Tantalus Range actually hosts some of the best climbing and mountaineering in Canada. With a wide range of granite spires, steep ridges, gleaming glaciers, and mixed routes of all grades, Tantalus accommodates every taste and skill level. The routes are accessed from high-mountain huts, which ensures extremely short approach times, as well as crowd-free climbs. You could take down one big objective a day! If you’re looking for time-efficient alpine thrills, it’s hard to find a better option. Find out more about alpine climbing in the Tantalus Range from Monte Johnston, ACMG Mountain Guide.

Season

July through September

Nearest city

Vancouver is 45 minutes from Squamish, BC, the starting point of the tour

Duration

2-4 days

Skill level

Intermediate to advanced

Itineraries

Choose how you spend your days

2-Day Alpine Climbing Tour in the Tantalus Range

2 days

Join a certified local guide and take on 1-2 awesome alpine objectives in an epic weekend tour. Head to the cozy Haberl Hut between the Dione and Serratus mountains, and tackle summits appropriate for your skill level, such as the 5.6 Red Tusk or the 4th Class NW Buttress of Alpha. Your guide will help you choose the right routes and make sure you accomplish your goals.

3-Day Alpine Climbing Tour in the Tantalus Range

3 days

One weekend isn’t enough for you? Explore the Tantalus Range’s alpine playground over 3 action-packed days! Looking for a challenging but manageable 5.6 peak to scale, or a technical 5.9 ridge you’ll need every tool in your box to traverse? Tantalus has it all and then some. Chopper in, stay in a well-equipped mountain hut and explore routes that suit your skill level.

4-Day Alpine Climbing Tour in the Tantalus Range

4 days

Granite spires, snow-capped summits, endless ridges, glimmering glaciers — tackle them all in this 4-day alpine climbing extravaganza! Choose your own itinerary based on your goals and skill level and let your guide show you all the best objectives in the area. If you’re motivated enough, you might even bag four peaks in a single tour!

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Itinerary

The cool thing about this tour is that you get to choose your own custom itinerary based on your objectives and how much time you want to spend in the mountains. Pick your favorite from a large variety of snow and rock routes, such as:

    • The Tantalus traverse – 5.6
    • The SW Buttress of Dione – 5.10-
    • The SE Face of Dione – 4th Class
    • North Face of Serratus – snow & ice 

…and many more! Here are some example itineraries:

Trip Highlights

Sample 2-day itinerary:

Day 1: The Tantalus Traverse

Meet your guide at the Squamish staging area at 7:30. Go over the logistics of the tour, then take a helicopter ride to the hut/camping area to drop off your gear. Then, it’s onward to Zenith Col. From Zenith Col, make the traverse over the Tantalus range, and return to the hut/camping area for dinner and a good night’s sleep.

Day 2: Serratus and departure day

Wake up early, head out and conquer a close-by summit, such as the heavily-glaciated but extremely fun North Face of Serratus. Finish around 1 pm, and return back to the hut for the flight back to the staging area!

Trip Highlights

Sample 4-day itinerary:

Day 1: The Tantalus Traverse

Meet your guide at the Squamish staging area at 7:30. Go over the logistics of the tour, then take a helicopter ride to the hut/camping area to drop off your gear. Then, it’s onward to Zenith Col. From Zenith Col, make the traverse over the Tantalus range, and return to the hut/camping area for dinner and a good night’s sleep.

Day 2: Alpha

After an early morning, it’s time for some good granite climbing up the east ridge of Alpha mountain. Then, return back to the hut for a warm meal and some well-deserved rest.

Day 3: Red tusk

After a second early breakfast, time to try for another peak, like the highly underrated Red Tusk, named after the reddish metamorphic rock that forms its flanks. When you take the summit, retreat to your lodge, have dinner, and recount your awesome adventure.

Day 4: North Face of Serratus and departure day

Wake up around 5:30 and head out and take on a close-by summit, such as the North Face of Serratus. Then, it’s back to the hut to pack up and get ready for the chopper. Catch your ride back to town in time for a burger dinner!

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Things to know

Things to know

Covid measures in the Tantalus Range, British Columbia

57hours is committed to providing safe outdoor adventure experiences. We require all guides using our platform to have a COVID-19 safety plan and to make the details of that plan accessible to travelers. In most cases, group sizes will be reduced, guides will avoid overcrowded locations, and other safety measures will be met depending on the location and activity. 

We also expect clients to respect local regulations and take measures to protect themselves, their guides, and the communities they’re traveling to. For more information on COVID-19 measures in the Tantalus Range, please refer to the BC Centre for Disease Control’s COVID-19 guidelines.

Please contact us if you have any questions or require further information. We are happy to provide you with the most up-to-date information!

What’s included?

What you get on this adventure:

    • An ACMG-certified climbing guide with extensive knowledge of the area
    • Two, three, or four days of alpine climbing and mountaineering
    • Helicopter transportation from the Squamish staging area to the starting point of your tour and back
    • Mountain hut accommodations
    • Wilderness camping permit

What’s not included:

    • Transportation to British Columbia
    • Transportation from the airport to the Squamish staging area and back
    • Personal alpine climbing equipment
    • Food and alcoholic beverages

How fit do I need to be?

All alpine climbs are physically demanding. An objective that is too hard for you will also be less enjoyable, as well as more dangerous. Work on your fitness by walking up hills or in the gym. Mountain days are long, low-intensity exercise, which is hard to replicate in short gym sessions, so strength exercises (squats, step-ups, stair-climbing with a rucksack) are more useful than speed exercises (running, spinning).

What if I’ve never alpine climbed before?

These 2-4-day expeditions are geared for intermediate to advanced climbers with some alpine climbing experience. You have to be in very good physical condition, as well as comfortable traversing and climbing in challenging alpine and glaciated terrain. Your guide will help you improve your skills and coach you when things get more challenging.

What about required equipment?

All technical climbing equipment can be rented from your guiding service. However, if you have your own gear, feel free to bring it. You’ll need:

    • Helmet
    • Headlamp
    • Climbing harness
    • Climbing hardware (quickdraws, cam devices, stoppers, etc.)
    • Belay device with 4 locking carabiners
    • 120 cm sling
    • Ice screw (if you have one)
    • Ice ax
    • Mountaineering boots
    • Crampons
    • Personal Prusik

For personal items, we recommend bringing:

    • An internal frame backpack (20-30L)
    • Duffel bag (50L)
    • Sunglasses
    • Synthetic or wool socks
    • Quality base layers and bottoms
    • Gore-tex or similar ski jacket
    • Softshell pants
    • Warm puffer jacket
    • Synthetic or wool toque
    • Brimmed cap
    • Light gloves and insulated mitts
    • Clothing for lounging around the hut
    • Booties — slippers or trainers
    • Sleeping bag rated between 0 and -5°C
    • Warmer sleeping bag (for expeditions)
    • Small pillow
    • Tent (can be rented)
    • Sleeping pad (can be rented)
    • Battery pack
    • Sunscreen and lip balm
    • Camera — optional

Group sizes and age requirements

Group sizes and prices:

    • The group size for these private climbs is usually between 1–2 climbers with one guide. 
    • Cost is per person and it doesn’t decrease as the group grows.

Alpine climbing in the Tantalus Range can be arranged for bigger groups. Contact us prior to booking.

Min. age requirements:

    • If you are older than 18, you’re good to go.
    • Minors younger than 18 but older than 10 may be permitted to climb on a case-by-case basis, but must be in the presence of a parent or legal guardian.
    • Minors younger than 10 are not allowed to join this tour.

If your group has climbers under the age of 18, contact us prior to booking to make arrangements.

Deposits and cancellation policy

A $500 CAD ($380 USD) deposit to secure your place is due upon booking. The remaining amount is paid 2 months (60 days) prior to departure. Once the trip is confirmed by the guide, the cancellation policy stated below applies. 

    • Deposits are non-refundable but transferable at the discretion of your Guide, so long as the cancellation is made more than sixty (60) calendar days prior to the trip or course or is initiated by your Guide. 
    • Cancellations made less than thirty (30) days before the trip departure date for any reason are non-refundable, but potentially transferable to another trip or date at the discretion of your Guide. However, they will also be subject to a 25% cancellation fee.

Getting there and meeting location

To get to Squamish, BC, the starting point of this tour, most people fly into Vancouver International Airport 1 hour away. From there, you can rent a car or take a bus.

Once you and your guide agree on the details of your itinerary, your guide will suggest the best place to meet, which will usually be at the staging area in Squamish. Then, you will be helicoptered out to Haberl Hut, the starting point of your tour. The guide will choose the appropriate terrain dependent on conditions and the ability of the group.

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