Our final stop is among the famous Croatian islands. Did you know that the Croatian archipelago is the largest in the Adriatic Sea and the second largest in the Mediterranean, after Greece?
Many of the islands hide climbing paradises, sometimes known, but more often waiting to be discovered. Among them are the two obvious hotspots: Brač and Hvar, where the rock climbing is best reached by sailboat.
Get impressed by Brač…
Let’s start with Brač. The climbing was moderately interesting until the discovery of Smrka in 2014 pinned the island right to the top of Croatian charts. Hands down, this is one of the most impressive pieces of rock I have ever seen. The tufa-littered lines on this 50m wall are on par with the best climbing routes Rodellar has to offer, with one important distinction: good luck encountering crowds or finding polished footholds.
Here you will find some of the best 8as (5.13b) in the country. On the flip side, you will have trouble finding something that’s not a spectacular 8a—more than half of the 30 routes are this grade or harder, making it tricky for parties with mixed levels. Luckily, there is another recently developed crag nearby, Smokovlje, with easier routes.
…and charmed by Hvar
Hvar is the more versatile island for climbing as the many crags can accommodate a range of skill levels.
I have to single out the remote bay of Vela Stiniva, one of my favorite places on Earth. Here I spent some unforgettable Robinson Crusoe-style holidays during my early hitchhiking trips. A tent, the sea, and amazing climbing all within a 50m radius. What more could you ask for?
The most famous place is the Cliffbase laguna. This little limestone lagoon features a cottage with charming accommodation just 10 seconds from the cliff. A further 10 seconds away is the pristine Adriatic and a massive 300m-wide deep water solo wall! Please note that Cliffbase is a private property, therefore, arrangements need to be made prior to the visit.