This wall is filled with beginner to intermediate sport routes and it’s also where I spent most of my first ever day at Rumney (which included getting shutdown by a very wet Rubicon (5.10b)).
Appropriately named, the crag is right behind Rumney’s main parking lot. Keep in mind that both crag and lot get jam-packed on weekends when the weather’s good. There are plenty of worthwhile beginner-friendly climbs on less than vertical walls such as Glory Jean’s (5.6), Cafe au Lait (5.6), and Shealyn’s Way (5.7). This is the perfect place to transition from gym to crag. There are harder, steeper routes on the adjacent wall to the right side of the cliff, which includes Espresso (5.10d) and 100% Columbian (5.11c). The routes range from short (25’) to longer (75’).
