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1. Chamonix, France

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Two runners in red shirts on the Grand Balcon Nord Trail above the Chamonix Valley behind them is a glacier.
High above the clouds and the Chamonix valley on a run on the Grand Balcon Nord trail. It’s these kinds of views that help me put one foot in front of the other on a difficult run. Photo: Daniel Fitzgerald.

Chamonix has a long and storied history in outdoor sports, dating back to the first ascent of Mont Blanc by Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard in 1786. As the birthplace of mountaineering and traditional gateway to high-alpine adventuring, it has been the site of countless great achievements.

Today the Chamonix Valley hosts some of the most prestigious trail running competitions in the world, including the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB), a 100-mile race around the Mont Blanc massif which attracts runners from around the globe. By some accounts, the village now welcomes more trail runners annually than climbers or skiers.

This is partly due to climate change affecting the area. With rockfalls becoming increasingly common and the permafrost melting at an alarming pace, it’s no wonder climbers are seeking their fortune elsewhere. For runners, however, things have never looked better.

The popularity of races is largely due to the high quality of trails. They are often located high above the valleys, offering expansive views and a real sense of exhilaration. I’m a fan and frequent visitor of many Chamonix’s trails, so picking a favorite was not easy for me, but I’ve managed to boil it down to two essential ones.

Chamonix trail running on Grand Balcon Sud and Aiguilles Rouges

First, we have Grand Balcon Sud. This beginner-friendly trail runs along the eastern side of the Mont Blanc massif, offering views of the area’s peaks and glaciers. You can take a lift up and do the relatively flat traverse, or if you want more of a challenge, you can skip the lift and opt for the 900-meter climb. The trail starts at Planpraz, the departure point for excursions to Lake Cornu and Grand Balcon Sud, and winds its way along the mountainside, passing through Alpine meadows and rocky outcrops. It’s a classic hiking trail in Chamonix that should not be missed.

Then there’s the Trail des Aiguilles Rouges—a brilliant option for more experienced runners. The trail winds its way through the Aiguilles Rouges nature reserve, with panoramic views of the Mont Blanc massif and the Chamonix Valley. The terrain is varied, with steep ascents and descents, technical singletrack, and is quite remote, making for a challenging but rewarding experience.

Chamonix has more to offer than just world-class trails right outside your door. The community in the area is welcoming and supportive, often cheering runners on during races. For me, the all-women trail running camps in Chamonix and Courmayeur are a perfect testament to how strong the community bond is.

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