Rock Climbing in the Dolomites

Limestone, via ferrata, and enough routes to last a lifetime

The Dolomites are not your average, ordinary, everyday rock climbing spot. The area’s distinctive spires, needles, ledges, towers, plateaus, and crags — not least to mention its historical significance during the First World War and unique cultural history — stood out so much so that UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 2009. And then there’s the climbing. Part of the Southern Limestone Alps and shared by the provinces of Bulluno, South Tyrol and Trentino, the Dolomites are home to three disciplines of climbing: traditional climbing, sport climbing and via ferrata. The latter of which, meaning “iron way,” involves climbing while harnessed to iron cables that traverse the mountains — Italian soldiers used the routes to defend Italy from the Austro-Hungarian army during World War I. While new via ferrata are still created today, the old ones offer access to the mountain with wartime history around every corner.

The ratings for trad and sport are conservative to say the least, so make sure you warm up some before tackling the harder stuff, like the Comici route on the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo (5.10b). Easier going initial climbs are the Arete of the Thumb (5.5) on Cinque Dita, Sassolungo, or the Dimai route on Punta Flames (5.6) or the south arete of the Falzarego Tower (5.5), both in Cortina. There’s thousands of routes to climb, certainly enough to merit a return trip. We know when we first climbed the Dolomites, we couldn’t wait to get back.

Who should climb the Dolomites

The Dolomites are worth going out of your way for. There are all levels of accessible grades, and the area itself is worth a visit at least once in a lifetime.