We leave Shirahama and ride toward the sacred mountains of Kumano along the Nakahechi route—one of the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage paths—passing through historic sites and gradually climbing into the revered Kumano Sanzan, the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano. After lunch with a mountain view, we swap bikes for boots and set off on foot deep into the forest. Ancient cedar trees line the way as we walk stone-paved paths, moss-covered steps, and old bridges, stopping at small roadside shrines called “oji” to hear stories of the pilgrims who walked this same route 1,000 years ago. We finish in the small town of Chikatsuyu Oji, a historic lodging stop for retired emperors and aristocrats on their way to Kumano.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 30 km (19 mi)
Hiking: 9.5 km (5.9 mi)
Accommodation: Japanese-style inn, Chikatsuyu