Summit the Iconic Matterhorn

Things to know

• What’s included?

  What you get on this adventure:

  • • An experienced, Internationally Certified Mountain Guide with extensive knowledge of the area
    • 3 days of training and alpine climbing (possible to add up to 3 days of pre-climb training in Chamonix)
    • Accommodation for the Matterhorn ascent
      • 1 night in a hotel in Zermatt
      • 1 night at the Hornli hut with communal bedrooms
    • 2 breakfasts, 1 dinner, and 1 bottled water during the Matterhorn ascent
    • All lifts

  What’s not included:

  • • Transportation to and from Zermatt
    • Airport transfers — we recommend Mountain Drop-Offs
    • Pre-climb training days in Chamonix — optional, available to add upon checkout (accommodation and breakfasts included)
    • Technical equipment (can be rented from the guide)
    • Some melas
      • Dinner on day 1 during the ascent
      • Lunches
      • Snacks and drinks
    • Guide gratuities — optional
• How fit do I need to be?

  All alpine climbs are physically demanding but ascent and descent days on Matterhorn are long and extremely physically strenuous as summit day includes over 1,200 m/ 3,940 ft of technical climbing while you carry approximately 15–20 lbs/ 6-9 kg on your back. With complicated and demanding route finding and a technical ascent and descent, the summit day is not to be taken lightly.

  Having a high base level of fitness is a must for climbing the Matterhorn in a 9-11 hours timeframe.  You have down from the climb in the early afternoon before the weather begins to change, as it so often does on this mountain.

  This mountain takes a high level of aerobic conditioning as the first 1-2 hours is an all out sprint to get as high on the mountain as possible while moving through broken 4th class terrain.  The lower mountain is less difficult than the upper mountain, so it is imperative to move fast through this terrain.  Once you reach the Solvay hut at 4003 m/ 13130 ft (in no later than 2.5 hours), you will slow things down and begin climbing the steeper upper sections of the mountain.

  Keep in mind that Matterhorn isn’t the only iconic peak of the Alps. If you’d like to summit the highest peak of this massif, which is undoubtedly less demanding than summiting Matterhorn, you can check what it’s like climbing Mont Blanc here!

• Which skills and previous experience do I need?

  Having experience in climbing with mountain boots up to 5.4,  with and without crampons,  on low angle rock and snow is a must. You will also need to have alpine rock experience to be accepted to this program. It’s important you’re agile and secure when scrambling on rock, ice and snow. If you lack any of these skills, we encourage you to book the 6-day training program and master these skills with a private guide before the ascent.

  You need to be able to sustain physical effort and be in control (particularly down climbing) for 8-12 hours on Grade 3 or 4 scrambling terrain. Experience of using crampons is essential as well as the top third is often covered in snow. 

  You can cover much of this during the training days but it is important to assess your fitness and ability, and take the necessary steps to come as prepared as possible.

  Prior climbs like Rainier, Denali, and the Ecuador Volcanoes are a good experience for the snow and ice portions. Training that helps climbers prepare for this summit climb is strongly recommended.

• How should I prepare for this adventure?

  You need to be prepared for 9 to 12 hours of Grade 2 or 3 scrambling terrain so recommended additional training includes hiking for three days per week at least 12 weeks prior to your trip.Try to climb as many Grade 3 scrambles as possible to get comfortable with the terrain. During your training, you will need to progressively ramp up your hike time, distance, and elevation gain. On summit day, climbers carry approximately 15–20 lbs/ 6-9 kg but we suggest you train with more. Strength training for your lower body and core as well as aerobic and anaerobic training are highly recommended. 

• What about acclimatization?

  The best way to reach proper altitude acclimatisation and the required level of physical fitness is intensive training in the Zermatt area during the training days. It is very important to understand that this week is a high-level building on previous skills, not an introduction.  

  At least three days before your trip, consume sufficient amounts of sodium and fluids. Participants should arrive with a healthy desire for enduring mountain conditions. There is a very real risk of Acute Mountain Sickness so a period of acclimatization (four or five days, including sleeping at altitude) is a minimum. Several days of training is a good way to acclimate. 

• Is Matterhorn a dangerous summit?

   Since the first ascent, more than 500 people have died while climbing or descending the Matterhorn (an average of three to four per year). However, about 3000 people summit the Matterhorn successfully every year. There are no crevasse, serac or avalanche hazards on the Hörnli ridge, but the complicated route-finding, exposed climbing sections with a risk of falling, altitude, rock fall and length make it a significant challenge. The Hörnligrat is primarily gneiss, which means that the danger of sliding and falling rocks is great. For this reason, it is important to join an experienced and knowledgeable mountain guide.

  If the guide determines that the client doesn’t have the minimum fitness or skill level required to climb Matterhorn safely, the guide can change the objective of the adventure.

• What about required equipment?

  Each item on the list below is required unless specified to be optional to ensure your safety and well-being. Weather and conditions can change quickly in the mountains so it’s best to be prepared for everything.

  For this adventure, you’ll need:

  • • Lightweight climbing helmet
    • Headlamp
    • Trekking poles
    • Crampons
    • Hybrid mountaineering ice axe (50-59 cm)
    • Harness with a couple of locks and carabiners and a sling, belay device, and chalk bag
    • Personal anchoring system
    • Rope — 40 meter 9 or 8.7 single rated rope

  The guide might put in one or two small, very light items from their backpack into somebody else’s backpack, just to help split the load.

  For personal items, we recommend bringing:

  • • Non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket with a hood
    • Non-insulated, fully waterproof shell pants
    • Breathable but wind-and-weather resistant softshell jacket
    • Non-insulated softshell pants
    • Lightweight insulated jacket
    • Lightweight trekking pants
    • Lightweight fleece layer
    • Long-sleeved base layer top
    • Long base layer pants
    • Quick-dry athletic shorts
    • Expedition-weight bottoms
    • Travel clothes
    • Liner socks, hiker socks and warm socks
    • Leg gaiters
    • Running shoes (off-mountain use)
    • Approach shoes
    • Technical mountain boots that work with crampons (mid-range stiffness of a boot)
    • Fleece or wool hat
    • Sun hat
    • Balaclava and a buff
    • Neck gaiter
    • Lightweight synthetic liner gloves
    • Midweight, lightly insulated gloves
    • Leather climbing gloves (broken in)
    • An internal frame backpack (30-35 L)
    • Duffel bag (for gear not required on the trek)
    • Sleeping bag liner
    • Chemical hand and toe warmers
    • Glacier glasses and/or goggles
    • Water bottle or hydration pack
    • Plastic bowl, spoon and coffee mug
    • Energy bars, gels and Shot Bloks you can eat on-the-go
    • Pocket knife
    • Toiletries (hand sanitizer, blister kit, toilet paper, pee bottle, etc.)
    • Small personal First-Aid kit
    • Sunscreen (30+ SPF)
    • Lip balm (30+ SPF)
    • Camera — optional
    • Power-bank — optional

  For in-depth advice on gear and technical equipment, your guide is happy to speak with you via phone or email. Your guide can rent some of the equipment upon request for an additional fee.

• Group sizes and age requirements

  Group sizes and prices:

  • • This tour is organized on a 1:1 climber-to-guide ratio basis. If you are a party of 2 or more, let us know and we can make arrangements by adding additional guides to the party.
    • Additional days can be organized for groups of up to 4 climbers.
    • All costs are per person.

  Min. age requirements:

  • • If you are older than 18, you’re good to go.
• Getting there and meeting location

  Most people fly into Zurich or Geneva and take the train directly from the airport to Zermatt or Chamonix. If you land in Geneva, there are several ways to reach your destination, including public transport. Looking to make airport transfers hassle-free? Check out Mountain Drop Offs—they provide door-to-door service in their comfy and spacious shuttles. Use the code 57HCHX to get a 5% discount!

  A trip to Zermatt by automobile ends 5 km/ 3 miles away in Täsch and continues by shuttle train or by taxi to the resort at the foot of the Matterhorn. The Tasch-Zermatt trains are frequent (about every 15 minutes during the day) and run both early in the morning and late at night. 

  Once you and your guide agree on the details of your itinerary, your guide will suggest the best place to meet. The guide will choose the appropriate terrain dependent on conditions and the ability of the group.

• Covid measures in Zermatt and Chamonix

  57hours is committed to providing safe outdoor adventure experiences. We require all guides using our platform to have a COVID-19 safety plan and to make the details of that plan accessible to travelers. In most cases, group sizes will be reduced, guides will avoid overcrowded locations, and other safety measures will be met depending on the location and activity. 

  We also expect clients to respect local regulations and take measures to protect themselves, guides and the communities they’re traveling to. For more information on COVID-19 measures in Zermatt, Chamonix and Matterhorn please refer to the Zermatt COVID-19 Information and Switzerland Federal Office of Public Health. 

  Please contact us if you have any questions or require further information. We are happy to provide you with the most up-to-date information!

• Deposits and cancellation policy

  Deposits 

  When booking a trip, you can either pay for it in full or reserve your spot with a 50% deposit. The remaining 50% of the trip price is to be paid 120 days prior to departure, at the latest.

  Secure your early bird spot with a 10% deposit! This tour gets sold out very quickly, but with early-bird booking, you will be the first one to know about any new upcoming dates. Pick your preferred dates without the risk of your bucket list adventure selling out!

  • • Only 10% of the total amount should be paid as a deposit upon booking. This deposit is non-refundable, but can be transferred to another 57hours adventure anytime in case the dates don’t suit you.
    • Once the dates are set, you can confirm your booking by paying another 20% of the total amount.
    • The final balance is due 3 months (90 days) prior to departure.

  Cancellations

  • • Booking fees are non-refundable. 
    • In case of cancellation within 48 hours after booking, the amount paid is fully refundable.
    • For cancellations 120 or more days before the trip, you are eligible for a 50% refund of the trip price.
    • For cancellations 0-119 days before the trip, there is no refund.