When you think of Canada, do you think dry, arid desert? Well, Skaha Bluffs are situated in an interior desert just outside of Penticton, BC; it’s hot and rocky and unlike anywhere else in Canada. There is not a spring that goes by, when I’m out skiing and my friends are climbing in Skaha. Situated in the middle of BC, it’s a top choice for edgy, steep climbing. It’s been many years since I have climbed here, but the memory of positive holds on steep faces will never fade.
Shaka’s climbing season starts early and ends late
There are over 50 crags with moderate routes, lots in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. The rock is gneiss, which gives you the small positive holds, and mostly vertical cliffs. As I mentioned, it is one of the few canadian zones that climbing begins in March and goes well into November. Most people hit it at the start or the end of the season as it gets pretty hot in the summer.
The place to start your season off, Skaha Bluffs’ long pumpy pitches will warm up your forearms, and dial in your footwork. Off days can be enjoyed at the lake or cruising the best wineries in British Columbia. Most camping is pay camping, with my favorite campground being Banbury Green.
Some Skaha Bluffs classics are Plum Line (5.10a), Wings of Desire (5.11c), and Bladerunner (5.12a).