Mountaineering Course in Alaska
Top three reasons to go mountaineering in Alaska
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Ascend one of the Alaska Range’s monumental peaks
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Take in the astonishing views of Denali and the surrounding mountains
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Master fundamental glacial mountaineering skills in Alaska’s wilderness
For centuries now, ambitious mountaineers have been making their way to Alaska’s snow-capped wilderness, seeking to test their skills on Denali—North America’s tallest peak. While conquering Denali is no small feat, those fit and brave enough to achieve it are rewarded with beautiful untouched wilderness, phenomenal panoramic views, and bragging rights that will last a lifetime! For anyone looking to get into mountaineering and one day overcome this legendary challenge, there is no better learning environment than Denali’s very own Alaska Range. Jump on the opportunity to master advanced skills and techniques in this one-of-a-kind setting. And if the weather allows it, you get to climb a glacier and overcome one of Denali’s neighboring peaks, with grandiose views of the mountain itself! Head to Alaska’s pale outback and grow into your mountaineering boots.
SeasonMay through June |
Nearest cityThe tour starts in Anchorage, AK |
Duration7-12 days |
Skill levelBeginner to intermediate |
Choose how you spend your days
Itinerary
Meet your guides at the Lakefront Anchorage Hotel. Go through an expedition orientation and equipment check. After the gear check, you and your guides will load up the van and make the two-hour drive north to the remote town of Talkeetna. After a quick registration with the National Park Service, board ski-equipped airplanes and take the flight into the Alaska Range. Help your guides and fellow participants establish a base camp, and spend the night here.
Cover the numerous skills needed for a successful mountaineering trip. You will learn glacier camping techniques and other aspects of efficient campcraft, such as cooking and water production. Review the knots you’ve been practicing and build upon them to learn proper rope techniques for belaying and rappelling. Go over snow climbing skills such as self-arrest, glissading, and the use of crampons and ice axes. Learn how to properly travel on a glacier, how to read glaciers to identify potential hazards such as crevasses, and how to get out of them if you happen to misread the terrain.
From your base camp, choose between several climbing objectives that put your mountaineering skills to the test. Pt. 8,670, also known as Radio Control Tower, and the East ridge of Mt. Frances both provide some great climbing opportunities right out of camp. Experience the stunning views of the three big peaks—Denali, Foraker, and Mt. Hunter—from the top of Mt. Frances. Your guides will help you find a route that provides the perfect balance of challenging but achievable climbing objectives.
If you’re on the 7-day course, enjoy your final day in the Alaska range. Depending on the conditions and how tired you are, spend part of this day climbing or practicing crevasse rescue in the giant crevasses near the base camp. In the afternoon, pack up your camp and catch your flight back to Talkeetna, ready for the drive back to Anchorage.
For those on the 12-day course, the fun is just getting started. Depart your base camp and drop down the infamous Heartbreak Hill and onto the broad Kahiltna glacier. Your goal is to move camp to a site at 7,800 feet, near the junction with the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. This moderate 5-mile carry is a good shake-down for the days to come. Pass by numerous crevasses and beneath some of the prettiest peaks in Alaska en route to camp. Depending on the conditions, you may camp closer to the East Fork of the Kahiltna for an attempt on West Kahiltna Peak
If the conditions allow it, break camp and head up Ski Hill to Kahiltna Pass. This is where you’ll establish High Camp for your attempt at Kahiltna Dome. Gaze at the stunning evening views down the Kahiltna from this camp at a height of 10,000 feet. This may be a tough day, as you’ll gain altitude as well as travel about three and a half miles along the Kahiltna. Conditions on peaks like Kahiltna Dome vary, so your objective might be another peak in the area.
Keep your fingers crossed for good weather! If you’re lucky, you get to climb Kahiltna Dome, West Kahiltna Peak, or any of Kahiltna Glacier’s other climbing options. You and your guides will pick a route that provides really fun climbing and the views as you gain elevation will be truly breathtaking.
Break camp and descend to Kahiltna Base Camp. De-rig on the glacier and fly out to Talkeetna for the drive back to Anchorage.
