Summit the Iconic Matterhorn

Included:

• • An experienced, Internationally Certified Mountain Guide with extensive knowledge of the area
  • 3 days of training and alpine climbing (possible to add up to 3 days of pre-climb training in Chamonix)
  • Accommodation for the Matterhorn ascent
    • 1 night in a hotel in Zermatt
    • 1 night at the Hörnli hut with communal bedrooms
  • 2 breakfasts, 1 dinner, and 1 bottled water during the Matterhorn ascent
  • All lifts

Not included:

• • Transportation to and from Zermatt
  • Airport transfers — we recommend Mountain Drop-Offs
  • Pre-climb training days in Chamonix — optional, available to add upon checkout (accommodation and breakfasts included)
  • Technical equipment (can be rented from the guide)
  • Some melas
    • Dinner on day 1 during the ascent
    • Lunches
    • Snacks and drinks
  • Guide gratuities — optional
  • Travel and medical insurance

Climbing Matterhorn is tough and requires excellent physical condition and previous winter mountaineering experience at high altitudes. Progression above 4,000 m (1,3000 ft) is more tiring than at lower altitudes (due to the lack of oxygen). If you have previous winter mountaineering experience and have already summited another, or better yet, multiple, 4,000-meter (1,3000-ft) peaks of intermediate difficulty, you can sign up for this adventure.

Ascent and descent days on Matterhorn are long and extremely physically strenuous as summit day includes over 1,200 m (3,940 ft) of technical climbing while you carry approximately 15–20 lbs/ 6-9 kg on your back.  Having a high base level of fitness is a must for climbing the Matterhorn in a 9-11 hours timeframe.

It’s also worth noting that the first 1-2 hours is an all out sprint to get as high on the mountain as possible while moving through broken 4th class terrain.  The lower mountain is less difficult than the upper mountain, so it is imperative to move fast through this terrain.  Once you reach the Solvay hut at 4,003 m (13,130 ft) (in no later than 2.5 hours), you will slow things down and begin climbing the steeper upper sections of the mountain.

Consider the following prerequisites:

• • Having experience in climbing with mountain boots up to 5.4,  with and without crampons,  on low angle rock and snow is a must
  • You will also need to have alpine rock experience
  • It’s important you’re agile and secure when scrambling on rock, ice and snow
  • You need to be in control (particularly down climbing) for 8-12 hours on Grade 3 or 4 scrambling terrain

If you lack any of these skills, we encourage you to reach out to us to book a 6-day training program, which should allow you to master these skills with a private guide before the ascent.

You can cover much of this during the training days but it is important to assess your fitness and ability, and take the necessary steps to come as prepared as possible.

Climbing Rainier, Denali, or the Ecuador Volcanoes provides valuable experience for the snow and ice sections. Focused training is highly recommended to prepare for this challenging summit ascent.

You need to be prepared for 9 to 12 hours of Grade 2 or 3 scrambling terrain so recommended additional training includes hiking for three days per week at least 12 weeks prior to your trip. Try to climb as many Grade 3 scrambles as possible to get comfortable with the terrain. During your training, you will need to progressively ramp up your hike time, distance, and elevation gain. On summit day, climbers carry approximately 15–20 lbs (6-9 kg), but we suggest you train with more. Strength training for your lower body and core as well as aerobic and anaerobic training are highly recommended. 

The best way to reach proper altitude acclimatisation and the required level of physical fitness is intensive training in the Zermatt area during the training days. It is very important to understand that this week is a high-level building on previous skills, not an introduction.  

At least three days before your trip, consume sufficient amounts of sodium and fluids. Participants should arrive with a healthy desire for enduring mountain conditions. There is a very real risk of Acute Mountain Sickness so a period of acclimatization (four or five days, including sleeping at altitude) is a minimum. Several days of training is a good way to acclimate. 

Approximately 3,000 people attempt to summit the Matterhorn every year. Still, since the first ascent in 1865, more than 500 people have died while climbing or descending Matterhorn (three to four per year).

This is why going out with an expert, certified, knowledgeable, and experienced guide will make your Matterhorn attempt significantly safer. There are no crevasse, serac or avalanche hazards on the Hörnli ridge, but the complicated route-finding, exposed climbing sections with a risk of falling, altitude, rock fall, and length make it a significant challenge.

Safety is a top priority. If you’ve overestimated your skills, you’re inadequately trained and you’re moving too slowly, to the point where the guide cannot ensure a safe continuation of the tour, the guide has the right to stop the tour at any moment due to safety concerns.

Each item on the list below is required unless specified to be optional to ensure your safety and well-being. Weather and conditions can change quickly in the mountains so it’s best to be prepared for everything.

For this adventure, you’ll need:

• • Lightweight climbing helmet
  • Headlamp
  • Trekking poles
  • Crampons
  • Hybrid mountaineering ice axe (50-59 cm)
  • Harness with a couple of locks and carabiners and a sling, belay device, and chalk bag
  • Personal anchoring system
  • Rope — 40 meter 9 or 8.7 single rated rope
  • Non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket with a hood
  • Non-insulated, fully waterproof shell pants
  • Breathable but wind-and-weather resistant softshell jacket
  • Non-insulated softshell pants
  • Lightweight insulated jacket
  • Lightweight trekking pants
  • Lightweight fleece layer
  • Long-sleeved base layer top
  • Long base layer pants
  • Quick-dry athletic shorts
  • Expedition-weight bottoms
  • Travel clothes
  • Liner socks, hiker socks and warm socks
  • Leg gaiters
  • Running shoes (off-mountain use)
  • Approach shoes
  • Technical mountain boots that work with crampons (mid-range stiffness of a boot)
  • Fleece or wool hat
  • Sun hat
  • Balaclava and a buff
  • Neck gaiter
  • Lightweight synthetic liner gloves
  • Midweight, lightly insulated gloves
  • Leather climbing gloves (broken in)
  • An internal frame backpack (30-35 L)
  • Duffel bag (for gear not required on the trek)
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Chemical hand and toe warmers
  • Glacier glasses and/or goggles
  • Water bottle or hydration pack
  • Plastic bowl, spoon and coffee mug
  • Energy bars, gels and Shot Bloks you can eat on-the-go
  • Pocket knife
  • Toiletries (hand sanitizer, blister kit, toilet paper, pee bottle, etc.)
  • Small personal First-Aid kit
  • Sunscreen (30+ SPF)
  • Lip balm (30+ SPF)
  • Camera — optional
  • Power-bank — optional

The guide might store one or two small and very light items from their backpack into somebody else’s backpack, just to help split the load.

For in-depth advice on gear and technical equipment, your guide is happy to speak with you via phone or email. It’s also possible to rent some of the equipment upon request for an additional fee, just let us know!

Group sizes and prices:

• • This tour is organized on a 1:1 climber-to-guide ratio basis. If you are a party of 2 or more, let us know and we can make arrangements by adding additional guides to the climb.
  • Additional days can be organized for groups of up to 4 climbers.

Min. age requirements:

• • If you are older than 18, you’re good to go.

Most people fly into Zurich or Geneva and take the train directly from the airport to Zermatt or Chamonix. If you land in Geneva, there are several ways to reach your destination, including public transport. Looking to make airport transfers hassle-free? Check out Mountain Drop Offs—they provide door-to-door service in their comfy and spacious shuttles. Use the code 57HCHX to get a 5% discount!

A trip to Zermatt by automobile ends 5 km (3 miles) away in Täsch and continues by shuttle train or by taxi to the resort at the foot of the Matterhorn. The Tasch-Zermatt trains are frequent (about every 15 minutes during the day) and run both early in the morning and late at night. 

Once you and your guide agree on the details of your itinerary, your guide will suggest the best place to meet. The guide will choose the appropriate terrain dependent on conditions and the ability of the group.

We highly recommend that you cover all your bases with both medical and travel protection. To make your booking and traveling experience as carefree as possible, simply choose Redpoint—the official 57hours insurance partner!

Redpoint tailors their protection packages for adventure travel, offering a comprehensive travel program, even in remote locations. Trip cancellation, natural disasters, pandemic coverage, medical evacuation, primary medical expenses—regardless of the travel interruption that may happen, Redpoint will have you covered.

Once your booking is confirmed and your trip is paid in full, you will be offered to purchase Redpoint’s protection. If you need any help or require more information, let us know and we will be happy to help!