West Highland Way Tour: Hike the Heart of Scotland

This evening, we’ll meet at our accommodation in Milngavie at approximately 6:30pm. Our guide, a fully qualified Mountain Leader, will answer questions about the trip and provide an overview of the adventure ahead. Milngavie, pronounced “Miln-gie,” is the gateway to the West Highlands and is easily accessible by bus, rail, and air. If you arrive early, you may wish to take the short 24-minute train ride into Glasgow to explore this historic and vibrant city.

Accommodation: Premier Inn, Milngavie

This morning, we set off from Milngavie, beginning our journey at the granite obelisk marking the official start of the West Highland Way. Our route leads us through Mugdock Country Park and the scenic landscapes of the ancient Earldom of Lennox. We hike between the Campsie Fells and Blane Water, following a well-maintained path through the peaceful countryside to Drymen. A ”wee dram” is the Scottish term for a small whisky, but sometimes it’s not so little!

Along the way, we may stop at Glengoyne Distillery, where you can purchase whisky miniatures for the evening. Drymen, our overnight stop, is located in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, often described as the “Highlands in miniature” for its stunning lochs, forests, and rolling hills.

Meals: Breakfast
Hiking: 19 km (12 miles), 7-8 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +225 m (736 ft), -225 m (736 ft)
Accommodation: Buchanan Arms, Drymen

After a hearty Scottish breakfast, we leave Drymen and rejoin the trail toward Conic Hill. The steep ascent is rewarded with breathtaking views of Loch Lomond, one of Scotland’s most famous and picturesque lochs. Conic Hill marks the Great Divide, separating the highlands from the lowlands of Scotland. We descend to the charming village of Balmaha, where white-washed cottages and a visitor center await. From here, the trail follows the lochside, winding through ancient woodlands and along headlands. This beautiful and serene route leads us to Rowardennan, where we spend the night on the Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond.

Meals: Breakfast
Hiking: 22 km (13.7 miles), 8-9 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +720 m (2,354 ft), -760 m (2,485 ft)
Accommodation: Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel

Today’s route takes us along the more remote northern section of Loch Lomond, where the waters plunge to a depth of 190 m (620 ft). The trail becomes challenging, particularly north of Inversnaid, offering a sense of wild beauty with towering mountains surrounding us. A highlight of the day is the stunning Inversnaid waterfall, where a footbridge allows us to get up close. The path climbs gently, providing spectacular views of the Arrochar Alps before becoming rougher near Doune Bothy.

Our destination, Inverarnan, is home to the historic and atmospheric Drovers Inn, dating back to 1705. This legendary inn, said to be haunted, retains its centuries-old charm and was once frequented by Rob Roy MacGregor, the infamous Highland outlaw.

Meals: Breakfast
Hiking: 22.5 km (14 miles), 8-9 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +480 m (1,569 ft), -480 m (1,569 ft)
Accommodation: The Drovers Inn, Inverannan

Today, we enter a dramatic landscape of soaring peaks and wide glens. We follow the River Falloch, passing the impressive Falls of Falloch before reaching Crianlarich village. The scenery opens up as we continue toward Tyndrum, following the River Fillan across the valley floor. Near Kirkton Farm, we pass the ruins of St. Fillan’s Priory, founded by Robert the Bruce in 1318. A short detour leads to St. Fillan’s Holy Pool, once believed to cure the insane. The route then follows the River Cononish into Tyndrum, a small village nestled among the mountains where we stop for the night.

Meals: Breakfast
Hiking: 18.5 km (12 miles), 6-7 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +475 m (1,553 ft), -255 m (833 ft)
Accommodation: Tyndrum Lodges, Tyndrum

Our longest day offers spectacular scenery as we hike past Beinn Odhar and the distinctive peak of Beinn Dorain. The trail leads to Bridge of Orchy, where we may stop for a refreshment. From here, we follow the Old Military Road, constructed in the 18th century after the Jacobite rebellion. Some would say the section after Bridge of Orchy is the most scenic section of the Way, but if you feel like it, you can finish early. Take the local bus to the Kingshouse and enjoy an early ”refreshment” in Glencoe.

A steep ascent above Loch Tulla brings us to the exposed wilderness of Rannoch Moor, one of Europe’s last great wild landscapes. The vast peat bog was once covered by a massive icecap. As we arrive at the 17th-century Kingshouse Hotel, at the entrance to Glencoe we are greeted by the iconic peak of Buachaille Etive Mòr, one of Scotland’s most photographed mountains!

Meals: Breakfast
Hiking: 30.5 km (19 miles), 9-10 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +610 m (1,994 ft), -595 m (1,945 ft)
Accommodation: The Kingshouse Bunkhouse, Glencoe

We begin the day near Glen Etive, a filming location for the James Bond movie ”Skyfall”, and enjoy views of the historic and hauntingly beautiful Glencoe. This valley was the site of the infamous 1692 massacre of Clan MacDonald by the Campbells. We follow the glen toward Altnafeadh, which is near the starting point of the trail for climbers heading to the cliffs on Buachaille Etive Mor.

From here, we tackle the zig-zagging Devil’s Staircase, the highest point of the West Highland Way at 550 m (1,804 ft). The trail then descends through moorland into Kinlochleven, home to the National Centre for Ice Climbing, featuring the world’s largest indoor ice wall. We’ll aim to arrive in Kinlochleven in time to sign up for a session (let us know in advance if interested), so we can try out climbing or brush up our skills!

Meals: Breakfast
Hiking: 14 km (9 miles), 5-6 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +375 m (1,226 ft), -610 m (1,994 ft)
Accommodation: Tigh na Cheo, Kinlochleven

Our final hiking day begins with a steep climb out of Kinlochleven, leading into a remote glen dotted with ancient summer farms known as “sheilings.” We cross the Lairigmor, or “great pass,” a peaceful stretch of the trail flanked by towering mountains. The path winds through woodland before descending into Glen Nevis, where we are greeted by the imposing sight of Ben Nevis, the British Isles’ highest peak at 1,345 m (4,411 ft). A couple of miles further bring us to the official end of the West Highland Way in the town of Fort William, where we celebrate our achievement with a well-earned “wee dram.”

Meals: Breakfast
Hiking: 24 km (15 miles), 7-8 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +520 m (1,700 ft), -520 m (1,700 ft)
Accommodation: The Alexandra Hotel, Fort William

Today marks the end of our West Highland Way tour. We say our farewells and depart from Fort William.

Meals: Breakfast