Coastal Japan Bike Tour: Exploring the San’in Region

The meeting point for our tour is Tottori City, the gateway to the San-in region. We meet at our hotel by 1pm for a bike fitting and an easy 25-km (15-mi) warmup ride to the Tottori Sand Dunes, the largest and most visually striking of their kind in Japan. We will also visit the Sand Museum with its impressive sand sculptures. In the evening, we convene for a trip briefing and a welcome dinner at a local izakaya restaurant. Please let us know if you require assistance with pre-tour hotel bookings.

Meals: Dinner
Cycling: 25 km (15 miles)
Elevation: +300 m (+985 ft), -300 m (-985 ft)
Accommodation: Hotel Monarque Tottori (Western style)

Our day begins with a 25-minute train journey westward along the San-in line. Disembarking on the outskirts of Tottori City, we saddle up and begin cycling. Just 2 km (1.2 mi) into our ride, we are greeted by vistas of the majestic Sea of Japan, so we continue along a coastal route unveiling sandy beaches and quaint fishing villages nestled between scenic headlands. After 15 km (9.3 mi), our path veers inland where the landscape transforms into a tapestry of farmlands and forested hills.

Soon, we reach Lako Togo and follow a gorgeous 10-km (6-mi) loop around its peaceful shores. We continue onwards through the lush countryside which now becomes decidedly more mountainous and we’ve got some climbing to do! Our destination is Mount Mitoku, home to the fabled Buddhist temple of Nageiredo. Embarking on a steep yet picturesque hike, we marvel at the temple’s precarious perch upon the mountain’s cliffs. After taking in this awe inspiring sight we will free-wheel down to Misasa Onsen, our home for the night. In the evening we can relax in the healing waters of the various hot springs in town.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 52 km (32.3 mi)
Elevation: +762 m (+2,500 ft), -702 m (-2,300 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Kiya Ryokan (Japanese style)

We head back to the coast by following the course of the Tenjin River for 20 km (12.5 mi). Then we veer west, alternating between coast-hugging roads and rural stretches through pear farms and rice fields. Eventually we will begin to catch glimpses of the towering Mount Daisen, a dormant volcano once referred to as the “Mountain of the Great God” and bearing resemblance to the more well-known Mount Fuji.

We cycle along undulating roads on the lower and middle slopes of the volcano, stopping regularly to appreciate the natural beauty of the area and take pictures. Tackling the slopes will involve some gradual as well as steep uphill bursts, though these are always rewarded with refreshing descents downhill. We spend the night in the seaside town of Kaike, known for its onsens and seafood! Make sure to catch the sunset at the sandy Kaike Onsen Beach.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 73 km (45.4 mi)
Elevation: +556 m (+1,824 ft), -618 m (-2,028 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Bayside Square Kaike Hotel (Japanese style)

This morning, we depart Kaike along a very pleasant and newly built coastal cycle path to Sakaiminato City. The city and its surrounding areas, sandwiched between the Sea of Japan to the east and the Nakaumi Inland Sea to the west, makes for a great cycling route. First we will cross the famous Eshima Bridge to the islands of Eshima and then Daikonshima where we will make a stop off at the Yuushien Gardens. These beautifully landscaped Japanese gardens are perfect for a refreshing stroll before looping back to the coast via a scenic road that seemingly floats on the Nakaumi Inland Sea and then continues to hug the edge of the Sakaiminato Strait.

The ride concludes with a high-arched bridge crossing to the harbor where we’ll load our bikes and embark on a relaxing 2 hour 50 minute ferry journey to the volcanic island of Nishinoshima. Upon arrival on the island, we will be transferred to our ryokan to enjoy a delicious seafood dinner. We are now in a truly remote, offshore, part of Japan!!

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 46 km (28.6 mi)
Elevation: +310 m (+1,020 ft), -311 m (-1,020 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Kuniga-so Hotel (Japanese style)

We begin with a quick transfer back to the port where our bikes will be waiting. We cut across the island on flat, paved roads for 10 km (6 mi) until we reach the spectacular Kuniga Coast, characterized by rugged cliffs, turquoise waters, and unique rock formations. We will walk along a coast-hugging trail to the top of the Matengai Cliffs; towering walls of volcanic rock reaching 257 m (844 ft) which offer breathtaking views of the sea and coastline.

We then cycle the 10 km (6 mi) back to the port and get comfortable on an inter-island ferry which will shuttle us over to our next island, Dogo-jima (2 hours on the boat). Upon arrival, we’ll hop on our bikes again and ride along a route that leads to traditional boat-building sites and a unique “bull sumo” stable. Continuing on, we make our way toward our accommodation near the port area. After 28 km (17.4 mi), we’ll reach our hotel, where we can unwind and soak in the peaceful atmosphere of this quiet, remote island.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 48 km (29.8 mi)
Elevation: +880 m (+2,890 ft), -872 m (-2,860 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Hotel Miyabi

Considered by those in the know as one of Japan’s best cycling routes, today we travel up the centre and down east coast of Dogo Island as we loop back around to the port to return to the mainland. The first highlight is after 10 km (6mi) (and a bit of climbing!) when we arrive at an ancient cedar tree which is believed to be over 600 years old and has spiritual significance for the islanders.

From here we head up a little further to the village of Nakamura where we can stop at a beach for a quick break. We then ride down the east coast on quiet country roads, passing through dense forests, fishing ports, rice paddies, citrus orchards, and tunnels that burrow beneath the coastal hills. After around 43 km (26.7 mi), we arrive back at Saigo Port where we’ll have lunch and board a ferry to take us back to the mainland (2 hours 25 minutes). Take in the views from the deck as we say goodbye to the islands. Upon arrival in Sakaiminato City we will be transferred to our hotel and we’ll reconvene for dinner in the evening.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 43 km (26.7 mi)
Elevation: +1,087 m (+3,566 ft), -1,093 m (-3,586 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Onyado Nono Sakaiminato (Mixed Western/Japanese style)

We begin with a 12-km (7.5-mi) ride over to the northern tip of the peninsula where we reach Miho Shrine. One of Japan’s most scenic shinto shrines, Miho is nestled on the slopes of Mount Atago and harbors intricate wooden architecture, including a gorgeous torii gate. We continue for another 3 km (1.9 mi) to the Mihonoseki Lighthouse where we can climb to the top to enjoy breathtaking vistas of the surrounding sea, lagoon and cliffs. We then backtrack a little bit before cutting 5 km (3.1 mi) across the hilly peninsula to its northern seashore.

Here we’ll cycle along the nature-rich coastline, climbing up and down for 35 km between a scenic string of headlands jutting out into the Sea of Japan, separated by bays sheltering fishing villages. The final 10 km (6 mi) of the route takes us through rural areas leading into the historic city of Matsue on the shores of Lake Shinji. We’ll saddle-off and walk over to the “Black Castle”, one of only 12 original feudal-era castles left standing in Japan! Perched atop a hill and surrounded by a moat and thick walls, visiting Matsue castle makes for a great finale to the day.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 65 km (40.4 mi)
Elevation: +1,267 m (+4,157 ft), -1,275 m (-4,183 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Matsue Excel Hotel Tokyu (Western style)

With our hotel in Matsue as our base, we’ve got a fun loop today that covers a large swathe of the forest-covered rolling hills and flat farmlands of the surrounding countryside. For the first 15 km we’ve got some gradual climbing to do but after that it is all downhill and flat.

The highlight of today’s ride is a visit to the Adachi Museum of Art in the lovely village of Hirose. The Adachi Museum is renowned for its integration of Japanese art within meticulously maintained gardens that feature lush greenery, carefully arranged rocks and serene ponds. Truly zen! We’ll spend some time here before circling back to Matsue via roads flanked by extensive farmlands. Back in Matsue the rest of the day is yours to explore more of the city or simply relax.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 47 km (29.2 mi)
Elevation: +556 m (+1,824 ft), -556 m (-1,824 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Matsue Excel Hotel Tokyu (Western style)

Time for the home stretch as we cycle east from Matsue to the coastal city of Izumo. After departing Matsue, we ride for 25 km (15.5 mi) through a tightly packed sequence of small valleys north of Lake Shinki. Expect some sharp bursts up and down complemented by blissful rural surroundings. As we curve around the lake, the roads flatten and we skirt along the banks of two rivers—first the Hii and then the Kando—for 30 km (18.6 mi) before we are greeted, for the last time on our tour, by the turquoise waters of the Sea of Japan.

The remaining few kilometres take us north along the coast to the endpoint of the day’s ride: Izumo Taisha. This is one of Japan’s oldest and most important Shinto Shrines and certainly one of the most impressive due to its grand architecture! We’ll spend some time exploring the beautiful grounds of the shrine and then hop on a local train for a 30 minute journey to our hotel near Izumo Train Station. We’ll enjoy a final dinner together as we celebrate the completion of our San-in cycling exploration.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Cycling: 63 km (39.1 mi)
Elevation: +446 m (+1,463 ft), -444 m (-1,457 ft)
Accommodation: ​​Green Rich Hotel (Western style)

Time to say goodbye! Depending on your onward travel plans, either head to the nearby airport or the train station. Daily flights are available to Tokyo, Osaka, and Fukuoka. Kyoto and Osaka can be reached in half a day by train.

Meals: Breakfast